I used to use a couple pieces of wood to hold my pedals and chair in place when sim racing. It wasn't a perfect set-up, as the wood ended up splintering into the carpet and it just looked awful. It wasn't even that stable, if I'm honest, but that's what was required to prevent my load-cell pedals slipping under heavy braking. This sim racing mount should help alleviate that issue.

It's called the SR Pedal Stand Pro from SR Rigs. It lifts up your pedals to a more suitable position for racing and extends underneath a user's feet to hold a gaming chair in place. The casters of the chair slot into a locking system and there's a strap to prevent a chair from tilting under heavy braking.

It was created under similar circumstances to my own. The person behind SR Rigs was using a heavy weight and a kitchen chair to avoid slipping, on no less than the very same Fanatec pedals I was having issues with.

The SR Pedal Stand Pro is designed to withstand braking forces up to 60 kg. The pedal height and chair mounting can be adjusted to accommodate users of varying heights. It supports a range of pedals, including those from Moza, Fanatec, Thrustmaster, and Logitech. It also folds away for easier storage.

I've since swapped to a Playseat Trophy for sim racing, solving one problem, but in doing so creating another. I can store the Playseat upright to try and save some space, but even so, it takes up a lot of room. A folding sim racing stand is one way around this, and a cheap one, though they tend to offer a more upright racing positive and can still move a little under braking.

One potential downside here is you are still reliant on mounting your racing wheel to a desk. In my experience, some desk clamps kinda suck, and can move around a little or come loose. You also need a desk that's at a suitable height or height-adjustable for the best racing position, which maybe necessitates buying a new desk.

Your chair also needs to fit the requirements of the SR Pedal Stand Pro. The castors need to be between 40–46 cm and you must have a standard gas lift cylinder with a diameter of 2.8–3 cm.

It's a very limited run for this product and, for now, there's a launch waitlist for the first batch. Pricing is not yet confirmed.

We've long been fans of Logitech's sim racing lineup, given that you can get in on the ground floor with something affordable, like the gear-driven Logitech G923, or go all the way up to the very expensive (and very brilliant) Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel and G Pro Pedal set. Up until now, however, there's been a big gaping hole in the middle of the range—which looks to be filled by the newly-announced direct drive RS50 wheelbase and RS Pedals set.

Unlike the 11 Nm G Pro, the RS50 tops out at 8 Nm of torque, a figure that Logitech says was arrived at based on data from their other sim racing products. An 8 Nm maximum is said to be the sweet spot when it comes to the balance between power and driveability, and as someone that's raced with quite a few different direct drive setups at this point, I'd have a tendency to agree.

The wheelbase itself will be available as a standalone unit starting at $350/€300, and comes with full TrueForce support, which uses game data in combination with audio to approximate some of the details that other direct drive wheels can miss, like engine rumble and precise kerb simulation. Our Jacob was very impressed with the TrueForce experience provided by the G Pro, so using the same system in a more affordable direct drive option strikes as a good idea.

However, beyond the base unit itself, you'll still need a wheel and a set of pedals to get yourself started from scratch. The RS50 base will support pre-existing RS Wheel Hub systems and RS wheels, or you can buy the base and a wheel/hub combination together as the Logitech G RS50 System for $700, available in either Xbox or PlayStation versions. Both will support PC, though, so take you'll be able to take your pick if you're playing on God's chosen gaming device.

As for the foot controls, it'd be worth taking a look at Logitech's other major announcement, the Logitech G RS Pedals. These steel-constructed units look plenty robust, and feature a Hall effect acceleration pedal sensor and a load-cell braking mechanism as standard. Top points to Logitech here, as it's still a major bugbear of mine when pedal sets don't include a load-cell brake by default.

There's another clever feature here I'm a big fan of, on sheer design principle alone. The rear of the pedals can be extended backwards to prevent them from tipping over on an unsecured surface, but the tips of the extensions can also be tilted upwards in order to make little feet, which can then be pushed against a rear wall.

Sim racing on a desk-based setup is always a bit of a faff when it comes to securing the pedals for heavy braking, so helping them press against the wall behind your desk seems like a nifty solution. They're well-priced, too at $160/$150 for the basic set. You'll pay an extra $45 for a clutch pedal, though, although most sim racers I see these days stick to paddle shifters. Still, I'd say that's a very reasonable sum for the addition.

In fact, this all looks rather promising. Logitech has a knack for designing good sim racing gear, and the fact that all of this new kit seems very modular means it's quickly building out a direct drive-based ecosystem that might make the likes of Fanatec and Moza sit up and take notice.

In my experience, all sim racers really want out of a direct drive setup is accurate feedback, robust components, and a straightforward racing experience—so if Logitech can do all that for a reasonable sum, I think it might have another success story on its hands.

It's 6AM on a Monday, you're poised and ready for new driving test dates to be released. At long last you've made your way through the queue when all of a sudden a red warning pops up. No tests found on this date. As tempting as it is to throw in the towel, there is a hack you can use to get your driving practise in without needing an actual car. That's thanks to racing wheels, and Prime Day is home to a load of racing wheel deals far less elusive than actual driving lessons.

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You can closely replicate the feeling of four wheels and the open road from the comfort of anywhere in your house thanks to these wheels. There is no other gaming experience that so closely matches the real thing; ever wonder why sim racers actually get picked up by actual racing teams? But, a racing wheel can be seen as a luxury bit of kit can set you back a pretty penny, especially if you fancy the whole pedal pushing experience. With Prime Day, though, we're seeing some fantastic deals on some of our favourite racing wheels.

Whether you're facing the bloodbath of booking a driving test, or you're sat on your pedestal holding your full license and feeling incredibly relieved that you learnt to drive the second you could, these racing wheels will help you bring the thrill (and partial terror) of driving home. Though, I wouldn't recommend implementing everything you learn in high speed racing simulators to your daily commute. We aren't liable for any speeding tickets you might get.

Quick Links

• Logitech G29 Wheel and Floor Pedals | $230 on Amazon (save $100)
• Thrustmaster T128 Racing Wheel | $180 at Best Buy (save $50)

Amazon Prime Day Racing Wheel deals

Regardless of what product you pick, whether you're ready to splash some cash or you're just dipping a toe into the waters of a racing simulator, having something like this in your gaming setup does make games like Forza a lot more immersive. The force feedback you'll get from a good steering wheel can truly make a huge difference; actually being able to feel when your rear wheels are losing grip just through a peripheral like this really is something.

It's definitely a lavish peripheral, since a controller will do just fine for most games. But it's well worth the investment if you're serious about your virtual driving. Or, at the very least it will teach you how to get a real life car to move. To an extent.

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The Renault Clio circa 2016 is a worthy enough machine. But exciting? Not so much. Until now, that is, thanks to a cybersecurity outfit in the UK, Pen Test Partners, that has converted just one such mainstream shopping machine into a driving game controller by intercepting CAN bus data (via The Reg). Oh, and yes, the car can still be driven. But preferably not while playing games.

While a 2016 Renault Clio is hardly the last word in bleeding-edge automotive tech, it is new enough to have sensors where it matters—on the steering, the brakes and the throttle pedal. And that means there's data flying around the car whenever you use those controls.

Pen Test Partners tapped into the Clio's Can bus, which is the primary data system used by modern cars. They accessed the Body Control Module (BCM) by tapping directly into the CAN wires using a wire splicer.

"The splicers are cheap products that just cut away a tiny bit of insulation from the wires and allow a tap to be made. They are often used for adding third party products to cars (e.g. monitoring black boxes) and can be bought from a number of places. Mine came directly from Amazon," says David Lodge of Pen Test Partners. Not exactly rocket science, then.

Well, not yet. Identifying what messages are sent when using the steering wheel, brake and throttle was the first problem.

"Some time in the hack car moving the steering wheel and pressing the pedals allowed me to identify the arbitration IDs and which bits of data were used for each state. I’m not going to go too far into the CAN protocol here, in essence, once you get the electrical state right and know the bus speed (which I used a Kvaser Leaf Pro for), a standard CAN packet consists of an 11 bit arbitration ID, 8 octets of data and a selection of flags and metadata about the packet," Lodge explains.

Well, obvs!

"Because CAN packets are so small (8 octet payload) and there are only a small number of arbitration IDs (0x800, or 2048 in decimal) and smaller arbitration IDs have a higher priority, often messages go down to specific bits within the packet. Several CAN database formats refer to the packet as a stream of bits rather than using octets, but my mind works in octets," he explains.

Me too, David, me too.

If that's the signals decoded, final step is feeding them into a game somehow. "Making the CAN messages do something required a translation method, I could patch the SuperTuxKart source to take controller input from CAN, but this would have taken quite a bit of time and required a full build environment. So I cheated found an easy route," Lodge says.

He used the Python module pynput to issue input device events but found the casr's CAN bus system was actually too fast. "When testing I steered, it then pressed that key for every packet, leading to hundreds of key presses for each event, with SuperTuxKart lagging way behind the CAN bus," he says.

After filtering the outputs from the Can bus to make them usable, the last major problem was the steering. "Steering though, steering was my bane," Lodge says. "We weren’t engaging the engine, the power steering wasn’t engaged. We also had the car’s tyres on a physical floor and as there was a mechanical link to the front wheels, they always moved.

"I didn’t want to tear up the tyres or the floor, so I made the steering threshold relatively small (< 0x8030 was right, > 0x80d0 was left). This mostly worked, except for a couple of people who tried to steer like it was a car which must’ve been hard to do and probably took off quite a bit of rubber from the tyres," he explains.

For the future, there are some details Pen Test Partners would like to add. "SuperTuxKart has weapons which could be fired. I really hoped I could put in a control for these, ideally the horn. Unfortunately the Clio uses LIN to manage the controls on the steering wheel and the horn doesn’t use CAN."

Lodge also says that sending messages to the instrument cluster to show speed "would’ve been the cherry on the top," but he ran out of time. That said, next time, Lodge wants to do something slightly different. "Anybody got a cheap motorcycle they want to sell?" Watch this space. And the road, if you're driving.

A Reddit user has turned their big rig truck into, well, a big rig. Yeah, the jokes write themselves, but one rather impressive gaming setup has popped up complete with a swivel-mounted monitor to play with a controller, accessories for simulator games, and energy via a full-on generator.

Shared to the PCMR subreddit, user ZanaZamora has shown off an update to a previous gaming rig post they shared on that same subreddit.

Though the specs of the machine are the same, they have since added head tracking, and have changed the truck due to the last one blowing up. They are now set up inside a Freightliner Coronado.

If the PC is the exact same rig they showed off a few years ago, it currently has an Intel Core i9 9900K and an RTX 2080. The PC has a bit of a storied past, with the user dropping it a handful of times, moving cases on three separate occasions, replacing the motherboard, and replacing an SSD. Thems the joys of PC ownership.

Notably, the new gaming setup has a steering wheel, which they occasionally used to play truck simulators on their downtime, which sort of feels like me playing Typing of the Dead: Overkill or Blood Typers after I clock out. Okay, maybe I kind of get it.

A few years ago I shared my gaming rig inside my “Big Rig” and it got a lot of reactions. That same rig is still kicking today, just in a different truck now! Even added head tracking recently! I also have a steering wheel and yes, occasionally play Truck Simulators. But I usually stick to the skies from r/pcmasterrace

The post shows off gameplay from a flight simulator named Digital Combat Simulator (DCS), complete with a flight stick, flight controls, and head tracking in action. It all looks rather impressive and is covered in neon lighting.

As well as this, their phone uses Beam Eye Tracker (with head tracking), which allows them to look around their virtual cockpit without having to use a mouse. They do have a mouse and keyboard for when they don't fancy using the entire setup, though.

Clarifying to bemused commenters, ZanaZamora says, "I usually have the monitor on a swivel mount and just game with an Xbox controller for shorter sessions. Table setup is for off days or shorter days".

Their game of choice right now appears to be DCS and, though they play truck simulators and non-simulator games, they "usually stick to the skies"

If they ever become a pilot, maybe a truck simulator will become their game of choice.

Updated April 25, 2025: Thrustmaster has been in touch to clarify that the paddle shifters on the T598 wheel rim, despite the way they feel, are actually metal, not plastic as the review originally stated. The copy has been adjusted for clarification.

When it comes to ultimate sim racing immersion, the tippity-top of racing wheel tech is widely considered to be direct drive. Attaching a wheel directly to a powerful electric motor results in instantaneous and highly-detailed feedback, the sort you'd receive if you really were at the helm of a fearsome, fire-breathing speed machine.

Trouble is, they're expensive. Thrustmaster, however, has been a name in the racing wheel space for some time, and is known for delivering belt and hybrid-drive offerings for very reasonable money. Now it's released the Thrustmaster T598, a direct drive racing wheel bundle with a few tricks up its sleeve—the first being the price.

For $499/£450, you get a direct drive wheelbase, a wheel rim, and an all-metal pedal set, which is downright astonishing for the cash. On paper, at least. Granted, it's not exactly money you might find down the back of the couch, but I was similarly astonished when I reviewed the Moza R5 bundle, which was then available for a very similar MSRP.

Its price has varied since, but it's still our top recommendation for the best budget direct drive racing wheel. An overbuilt, premium-feeling bit of kit, the little Moza has been my go-to sim racing companion ever since I first got my hands on it, so I was anxious to see what Thrustmaster was bringing to the party for similar cash.

Which brings me to the second trick in the T598's repertoire. While the Moza delivers a maximum of 5 Nm of torque to your fingertips, the T598 makes use of a direct axial drive motor to deliver what it describes as 5 Nm of torque with an overshoot capability of +100%.

In essence, it's able to boost the torque up to 10 Nm for brief moments—like simulating the sort of snap oversteer that attempts to wrench the wheel from your grip when you mess up a corner.

Axial flux direct drive motors have their magnets aligned in parallel with the axis of the wheel, as opposed to the radial flux motors used in other direct drive wheels, which have magnets mounted in parallel with the wheel shaft. Thrustmaster says that an axial flux motor is able to deliver more responsive feedback than traditional, radial flux motors, and eliminates "cogging."

This is a phenomenon whereby the magnets aligned with the internal stator in a regular radial flux motor can cause a jerky, uneven sensation in the wheel movement, particularly at low speeds. It's not something I've found particularly bothersome in direct drive wheels I've used to date, but hey, getting rid of it entirely sounds like a good thing to me.

There are some downsides to this tech, however, and the main one is size. The T598's wheelbase unit is a seriously chonky affair, and makes for a desk-dominating addition to a regular setup. It's an unwieldy object, and one that I wouldn't be too keen to keep in place for any longer than I needed to as a result.

Included are two plastic desk clamps that slot into a screw-in lower metal frame, and I spent some time puzzling over the fitting instructions. Essentially, they're connected to the wheelbase primarily by the clamping force created when mounting them to the desk.

There's a plastic tab that slots into a corresponding hole in the base to let you know you've oriented them correctly, but it's not a confidence-inspiring thing to do when dealing with a unit of this size and weight.

Once secured the mounts feel fairly robust, although I question the use of plastic-on-plastic in the construction. A plastic screw grinding in a plastic socket doesn't feel like the strongest or most high-quality mounting solution Thrustmaster could have come up with, and the fact the clamps don't secure to the base independently raises an eyebrow. Still, money has to be saved somewhere, I suppose.

Where it really shouldn't have been saved, however, is the wheel rim itself. While the rubber grips initially feel good, the wheel rim is hollow plastic—and significant sections of the outer diameter are left gripless, which reveals the tinny-feeling material underneath. The paddles are metal, but have a significant amount of flex that initially made me think they were plastic, and the various buttons are of the thin and rattly variety.

The T598's Raceline Pedal set is much better. It's an all-metal-construction, two pedal affair, with three adjustment notches and spare springs for tension and pedal feel.

While the brake pedal lacks a piston-like load cell solution, a polyurethane stopping ring is included (along with a firmer spring) that performs a decent impression of one, giving a solid amount of resistance to the travel and an obvious end point for brake-stamping moments.

A pet peeve of mine is an unsatisfying brake pedal, but the solid construction and adjustments on offer here makes the Thrustmaster's offering better than many other cheap units. There's no flex in the bottom plate, and a set of saw-toothed add-on grips gamely suggest that the pedals won't go backwards if you use them on a carpeted floor.

This doesn't really work out in practice, as I still find them travelling away from me in heated moments. I'd still suggest you wedge something behind the pedals if you're not attaching them to a sim rig, but it's a nice attempt to solve a universal problem, regardless.

So, to racing. The pedals attach to the T598 wheelbase with an included proprietary cable, the wheelbase connects to a PC with an included (and may I say, very high-quality) USB Type-A cable, and off to the virtual track we go. The whole kit and caboodle is controlled by My Thrustmaster Panel, which immediately recognises the wheel and updates the firmware automatically. Thanks, MTP.

However, navigating to the main settings tab reveals a "coming soon" page. You can still check the inputs are working and the wheel is aligned correctly in a separate menu, but the placeholder page encourages you to use the onboard wheel settings menu to adjust the force feedback gain using the included display and wheel buttons.

Which is not a particularly intuitive process. Fiddly menus, thin plastic face buttons, and a tiny little screen with abbreviated menu titles combine to create a frustrating adjustment experience, although for what it's worth the wheel itself works fine with the default options out of the box.

Whacking the feedback gain up to 100% and jumping into Assetto Corsa Evo, I have to say the axial drive motor on offer here really is capable of delivering a lot of detail. Kerbs rumble, track surfaces are communicated through your fingertips, and the difference between a good set of tires and a bad set is night and day. All as it should be.

And as for the 5 Nm's worth of overshoot? I'm not entirely sure I can feel it in action. The T598 is certainly capable of throwing you about, but I can't honestly say it feels any more powerful than the Moza, which is a bit of a disappointment given just how much extra desk space is taken up by the Thrustmaster's huge electric motor.

That being said, when it comes to feel I'd say it's equivalent. By which I mean, pretty fantastic. It does an excellent job of conveying what the front tires are doing at all times, along with that spooky, direct drive-enhanced sensation that your rear wheels are ever-present behind you, even though they exist purely in the virtual ether.

The whole experience is spoiled, however, by that cheap-feeling wheel rim. Keeping my hands in the ten and two o'clock positions means I'm in rubber grip territory, which feels decent. Move a hand up into the middle or bottom of the wheel and suddenly I find myself in hollow plastic land, complete with screw holes on the back of the rim I can feel with my fingertips.

Worse than that, there's a seam running around the inside of the rim which ranges in feel from distracting, to downright palm-chafing. Two pieces of plastic meet right in the spot where your thumb and forefinger rest, which left me with sore hands and visible marks after a few hours' use.

Those shifter paddles aren't wonderful, either. Serviceable, sure, but I can't help but feel you should get more for your money than this, even if it is a "budget" product.

The wheel rim just isn't satisfying to use, and lets the entire experience down. If you're buying a direct drive setup, you're spending a significant amount of cash on a motor system that delivers the maximum amount of immersion.

Experiencing that immersion through a cheap-feeling wheel rim is a bit like eating a steak with plastic cutlery—the base experience is roughly the same, but you know it'd be so much better with a higher-quality set of, err, utensils.

Of course, Thrustmaster will sell you different wheel rims to fit on the direct axial drive base, ranging from Ferrari-tie-in F1 style models to more traditional fare. But the point is, you're paying for a sim racing-ready direct drive bundle, and with this wheel attached to it, I don't think it is.

Which leaves this review in an awkward position. While the base and the pedals are fantastic for the cash, I can't really recommend the T598 bundle without also recommending you swap out the wheel, which increases the price significantly. Whereas budget offerings from Moza and Fantatec feel like the whole package, wheel and all, straight out of the box.

Alright, you'll probably want to spend a little extra cash on a proper brake load cell kit, as budget direct drive wheel bundles still leave them out of the package, for reasons that remain unclear.

That's it, though. Job done, a-sim-racing you shall go. Which, now I've finished writing this review, I'm going to be doing this weekend. But with the Moza, and a wheel that feels worthy of a fully-fledged racing machine.

Nacon has some form when it comes to racing games. While it might not be the first company you think of when it comes to virtual rubber meeting virtual road, its KT Racing studio is behind games like TT Isle of Man, WRC Generations, and the long-running Test Drive Unlimited series. Nacon has never made a proper sim racing wheel though—and its Racing Department is about to dive head first into the market with a direct drive bundle called the RS Pure, as part of its newly formed Revosim brand.

Featuring a wheel base delivering 9 Nm of torque, a well-featured wheel rim with customisable button caps, and a load-cell equipped pedal set, it's certainly a confident move into an ever-more-crowded market. A standout feature, however, is the addition of a clip on top of the wheelbase itself. Here you can use your phone as a virtual dashboard, or adjust various force feedback settings via a Bluetooth connection.

I got a chance to test out a pre-release version of the RS Pure at a press event in Paris ahead of its planned launch in June, and can report it feels like a hefty, serious bit of kit. And while direct drive racing wheels are starting to become homogenous these days, the option of using your phone to fiddle around with the settings strikes as a key difference in an increasingly crowded market.

However, I didn't get to test the virtual dashboard feature, as the telemetry syncing is still in beta testing. Still, here's hoping a decent range of games will be supported when the RS Pure eventually releases.

Back to the hardware. While the RS Pure initially looks and feels fairly default, the wheelbase and wheel rim are suitably rugged—and the pedals themselves are wide, aluminium jobs that look like they can withstand some abuse. These are tilt adjustable independent of the base, and the included load cell mechanism can be stacked with various differently-coloured elastomer washers to adjust the tension.

I tried out the red version, which Nacon says has a maximum resistance of 100 kg and is "reminiscent of F1 single seaters." Having never driven an F1 car I'll take Nacon's word for it—but it was firm enough to convince me that I would make a poor F1 driver, as if I wasn't already aware. Still, the blue "light resistance" washers are much squishier, and more suitable for a desk setup to prevent the pedal base from shooting away from you.

One thing I'm not particularly fond of is the profile of the wheel itself. It initially looks rounded, but it's actually flattened on the inner diameter, which feels a little odd in your hands. While Nacon plans to release more interchangeable rims of its own in future, there's no hub support for other manufacturers' efforts for now.

Swinging a simulated Alpine A110 around in Test Drive Unlimited (we were in France, after all), I can say that the feedback feels robust, and the wheel generally responds quickly—although my test unit could have been a touch faster at returning to center. I'd also like a bit more granular response in the feedback itself, as it felt ever so slightly numb.

Mind you, this is the first time I've driven in this particular game, and my driving in general leaves a lot to be desired—so perhaps my ongoing skill issues combined with some more arcade-like feedback responses came into play here.

These niggles could also be attributed to preference quirks, and an afternoon spent fiddling around in the app getting my exact settings right would very likely help. I think it's a clever move to push the controls away from an alt+tabbed application tweak to your mobile device, as most people keep their phone within easy reach while gaming. Plus, I've had more than one sim racing game bug out on me when focus-switching to another app.

Direct drive sim racing hardware appears to be reaching a homogenous point, with brands like Fanatec, Moza, Simucube and more competing for your hard-earned cash with very similar-looking products. The RS Pure bundle (that's base, rim, and pedals) is available to pre-order now for €800, with US pricing yet to be revealed. That arguably puts it more in the lower-high-end direct drive wheel market rather than the mid range, although powerful wheel combos are expected to be pricey affairs.

Still, it also means that the RS Pure runs into some serious offerings from those aforementioned direct drive manufacturers, and potentially some trouble. Will buyers take a punt and opt for Nacon over a more sim racing hardware-associated name? It's difficult to say.

My brief time with a test unit did reveal the odd kink, and these will certainly need to be ironed out before launch if it's going to take on the polished efforts of say, Fanatec.

Still, the RS Pure set is a brave entry into the marketplace, and if it can shake out those last few gremlins it looks like it might provide genuine competition. There's room in this space for more manufacturers, and Nacon has certainly been around long enough to know how to throw its weight towards a new product line.

As for whether it turns out to be a Red Bull or a Williams come June, though? I'll reserve judgement until I spend some serious hours in the seat with a finished version myself.

Owners of the Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel rejoice! We can finally upgrade our sim racing setup as we always had hoped. With new shifters, handbrakes, and, as I'll cover here today, new wheels and wheel hubs. Logitech has two new racing wheels on offer, one designed for the track and another largely aimed at the rally or even classic car crowd.

There are two parts to this latest release: the RS Wheel Hub ($130), containing the interface, paddles, and electronics to attach the wheel to the Pro Racing Base; and either the RS Track Wheel ($70) or RS Round Wheel ($70), which are simply metal and a rubber-like plastic.

For a complete set-up, you'll also need a Pro Racing Base ($600) and Pro Racing Pedals ($350). And there's also the optional RS Shifter and Handbrake ($150).

That all adds up to a grand total of $1,300.

The alternative option for newcomers is purchasing the Pro Racing Wheel ($800), which contains a Pro Racing Base and a hub and wheel combo. However, I made the mistake of assuming that the hub used on the Pro Racing Wheel was the same, or at least compatible, with the RS Wheel Hub.

It's not—the layout is different—you would need to purchase an RS Wheel Hub and RS Track/Round Wheel separately with this unit to swap out to a different wheel design. Altogether, you're looking at a total of $1,500 ($1,350 without the shifter).

Still with me? You don't necessarily save anything by going for the Pro Racing Wheel versus the Pro Racing Base with RS Wheel Hub and RS Track/Round Wheel. If you decide down the line to buy a round wheel to go with your track wheel, or vice versa, you can buy another RS Wheel Hub and the corresponding wheel for $200. You could swap your wheels between one hub, however, it just might be a bit of a pain to undo the six bolts and three screws every time.

But wait, there's more. PC players can play with any of Logitech's bases/wheels/hubs/shifters—they're all PC compatible. However, if you want Xbox/PlayStation/PC compatibility in a single wheel, you should buy a PlayStation-compatible Pro Racing Base and an Xbox-compatible RS Wheel Hub.

The other thing to consider is that you can use any pedals, shifter, or handbrake with the Logitech gear provided you plug it into your PC separately. The Logitech stuff all combines into a single USB cable via the USB hub on the rear of the Pro Racing Base/Wheel.

Got all that? Phew. It's a lot to chew through.

If you already have a Pro Racing Wheel then the only bits that matter are the RS Wheel Hub and RS Track/Round Wheel. So let's talk about those.

The RS Hub contains 15 buttons, one-directional stick, two dials, and two rear paddles. Compared to the Pro Racing Wheel, the RS Hub offers two extra buttons and a better overall layout with symmetrical dials, which are easier to use while racing. However, it disappointingly lacks the dedicated clutch paddles.

While only useful for launches at the very start of a race, F1 cars use a clutch paddle rather than a pedal. As an F1 fan who was hoping to use the RS Track Wheel for a more authentic experience, it feels a bit odd that I can have either a round, non-F1 style wheel with clutch paddles or an F1-style track wheel with no paddles, but never both optimal options at the same time.

Them's the breaks. The RS Track Wheel does make it up in other ways, at least.

Rounding off the RS Wheel Hub is an RGB LED strip that corresponds to your revs in-game. This actually takes over from the rev meter already included on the Pro Racing Base as standard—the difference is the one on the RS Wheel Hub is diffused, which is a bit love-it or hate-it, and can be customised to show all sorts of different colours and varying rev patterns, including inside-out, outside-in, left to right, right to left, or other designs of your own creation.

I must say I'm a fan of the diffused rev lights, which erupt from green to yellow to red to purple to blue when I put my foot down. They're positioned more upfront and are more obvious than the more traditional rev lights on the base, even if they are maybe a little less accurate at a glance for the added diffusion.

Onto the RS Track Wheel. It's a hunk of metal over 3 mm thick and wrapped in a moulded TPE grip. TPE feels a lot like a hard rubber, though it's a type of plastic. That's capped on either side by plastic. It feels like it'll last a good few thousand laps, at the very least, but it does lack the softer, more premium feel of the Pro Racing Wheel, which comes wrapped and stitched.

Combining the RS Wheel Hub and RS Track Wheel couldn't be easier. Slot the wheel over the hub and it fits snugly into place. Then go around attaching the six included bolts with the larger of the two included Allen keys. The smaller key is to fit the three screws on the rear—one on the middle stem of the wheel and the other two slightly awkwardly under the shifter paddles. They're easy enough to screw in all the same.

Once combined, I weighed up the combined RS Wheel Hub and RS Track Wheel versus the standard Pro Racing Wheel, uh, wheel.

• Pro Racing Wheel (hub and wheel): 1,451 grams
• RS Wheel Hub and RS Track Wheel: 1,220 grams

The Track Wheel weighs a good bit less and combined with that smaller size and open-wheel style design, I felt like I could really throw it around at high speed. It's agile but with the option to fully grip either side to steady it during a tough corner with 11 Nm of torque pushing through it.

It's also wicked fun.

I have to admit, I've had a blast with the Track Wheel installed. It just feels right to be racing around in F1 24 with a compact wheel like this. Easing into the deep corners with a full rotation, like the pros, is really satisfying.

I've also taken it for a spin in Forza Motorsport and something altogether more absurd: an old Lotus F1 car at Brands Hatch. Phwoar, that thing goes. The grip on that thing is otherworldly and I could nail the speed through the corners with accuracy with a little tweak of the Track Wheel either way.

Altogether, I'm itching to get back into the racing seat even as I write this. It's a world of fun and more than I was expecting more or less a new wheel design to be.

Considering this is a competitively priced unit compared to even Thrustmaster's cheaper F1-style wheels, I'm thoroughly impressed with it. Pulling it out of the box, it feels all the premium product you want it to be and maybe a little more for the money.

The lack of clutch paddles is a bit of a shame—these would really bring together an F1 sim experience nicely—and I was really expecting this to work neatly with my pre-existing Pro Racing Wheel hub. Nonetheless, it's a great upgrade for a sim racing setup, and undeniably fun, too.

Earlier this year, we reported on Corsair's plan to acquire Endor AG, owners of the sim racing specialist Fanatec. That looked somewhat less certain after Endor filed for insolvency in July, but the deal went ahead and Fanatec is now part of Corsair. That includes its debts, manufacturing difficulties, and a raft of upset customers. Nevertheless, Corsair is determined to fix it all, though its CEO admits that "it's certainly not going to be business as usual because business at the moment is not as we'd like it."

Andy Paul, Corsair's chief executive officer, made the remark in an interview with The Drive and pointed out that the necessary work to resolve everything was already underway. For example, one common complaint from Fanatec's customers was that support was very limited, such as only being available for eight hours per working day.

Corsair says it will take a few months to set up a global 24/7 customer service but once complete it should prevent repetitions of incidents such as untrackable orders that plagued Fanatec, especially during and after the Covid lockdown periods.

Something else that Andy Paul wants to get on top of is the whole manufacturing process because Fanatec was taking months to complete certain orders. "It turns out the factories in China are not full, not busy, so costs are actually in pretty good shape," Paul noted.

That comment raises a simple question, though. If the factory manufacturing all of Fanatec's parts wasn't at full capacity, why was it taking so long for orders to arrive? It would seem that the company just didn't have the infrastructure in place to deal with so many orders and would routinely sell items that it just didn't have in stock.

Fortunately, Corsair is a much larger operation and its vast portfolio of PC hardware and accessories means it has a significantly better grasp of managing large inventories and orders

"We have very large factories running that produce a lot of stuff. We're going to be able to tune up the whole supply chain and maintain competitiveness."

Something else it has is a presence in the retail market. Fanatec only sold its products directly, whereas Corsair's hardware can be found in stores and all of the major online retailers. Not only should that make it much easier to find a Fanatec wheel system you like but you may also have the chance to try one out first.

However, Paul did remark that this is only likely to be for the lower-priced items. "We'll try [to] bring some of the costs down with our supply chain so we can actually run some of the lower-end products through retail… I think for the high-end gear, the sort of $1,000 wheel and pedals, I think that's going to either stay direct-to-consumer or [get sold via] very, very specialized retailers."

Whatever one thinks about Corsair's purchase of Fanatec, it's great that the products will continue to see the light of day. Logitech pretty much dominates the general racing wheel market (though there are numerous vendors in more expensive niche sectors) so any competition here is going to be good for the consumer.

At the very least, you can expect to not have to wait months for your new wheel to arrive, only to find you'll never actually get one because it wasn't in stock!

Logitech is releasing a slew of new wheels and accessories for its top-tier wheelbase. This includes new options for both rally and open-wheel racing fans alike, a shifter-cum-handbrake, and an adapter to make most wheels work with Logi's direct drive base. All of which is an important step towards turning its best wheel into something more of a racing ecosystem.

Announced over at Logitech's Play event, there are a number of new PC products all built around the direct drive wheelbase, the Pro Base:

• RS Wheel Hub (PC)
• RS Track Wheel
• RS Round Wheel
• RS QR Adapter
• RS Shifter & Handbrake

I use Logitech's G Pro Racing Wheel and Pedals for my own racing set-up at home. The set-up is easy, the force feedback is great, and the button layout makes more sense to me than some. But as someone who prefers to race on clean-cut F1 tracks rather than backcountry roads, my main complaint these days is the mostly rounded wheel and lack of customisation options. I know I'm not alone in thinking it needed more upgrade options to make it truly sing, either.

In a briefing on the products, Logitech admitted it's been a long process getting these new wheels and accessories out to market and expanding the ecosystem for its direct drive wheelbase. The company's reps said that reliability testing, over long periods, is "one of the major reasons why these products have taken as long as they have."

The new Track Wheel appeals to my sensibilities as an F1 fan. It's a compact, cut-down design made for mimicking the sort of thing you'd find on an actual F1 car—minus the many screens and doohickies. The Round Wheel is more your traditional wheel for Assetto Corsa, iRacing, or any number of racing titles.

The good news is the Track Wheel and Round Wheel aren't frightfully expensive, both coming in at $70 or €80. That's because the central section containing the many buttons, dials and LED indicators is able to be transplanted from the existing flat-bottomed round wheel included in the G Pro Racing Wheel kit onto either design.

If you don't already have the G Pro Racing Wheel but you like the look of what is in my opinion the best racing wheel for PC, you don't need to purchase the whole kit and an additional wheel design. Logitech is selling separately the Pro Base for PC for $600 (€650) and the RS Wheel Hub (the central wheel bit with all the buttons) for another $130 (€140). You'll still want to pick up a set of the pedals, as well.

If you have more money to burn, Logitech has also announced a new partnership with Momo, maker of similarly sized racing wheels for actual cars. There are two new models to keep an eye out for: the Sim GT 290, an F1-style wheel; and the Sim Racer 320, a round wheel.

You're not beholden to Logitech's own wheels anymore, though. That's actually the piece of news I'm most excited about: the new RS QR Adapter means that "almost any steering wheel" can attach to the Pro Base, providing it's fit with 70/50.8 mm bolt patterns or rear mounted on 70 mm. This little adapter is $60 (€70) by itself, but if you're hoping to use your legendary wheel with this kit, it's now an option. A niche use case, due to the lack of support until now for this wheel base and it's relatively affordability compared to some high-end sim racing gear, but an option nonetheless.

Pretty much all of this stuff is set to land in September, though that brings us onto the RS Shifter & Handbrake. It's only out in September in the EU, with the rest of the world getting it in October. At $150 (€160), it's a pricey accessory, but one that plays two roles. 

The RS Shifter & Handbrake is programmable as a sequential shifter when you need it, or as many might prefer, a simple handbrake. It offers height adjustments and what I'm told is "precise actuation feedback" for a tactile response. You can also use the include table clamp to double up and load two of them onto a single racing rig, making for a full rally suitable setup. That'll cost ya $300, mind.

You can use the RS Shifter & Handbrake on cheaper Logitech bases, including the G920, if you'd prefer to save some cash. That's a simple job of connecting them both on PC, though it requires an additional adapter (Racing Adapter) on console. There's a lot more to consider with console compatibility, as the Pro Base comes with either PC or PlayStation support, and the RS Wheel Hubs support both PC and Xbox. It's a little confusing, but that means you can carefully select parts for full PC, PS, and Xbox compatibility.

But hey, PC compatibility is relatively straightforward. Phew.

Though I'm yet to try these parts out for myself (I should be soon), this does appear a step in the right direction for Logitech as it competes with brands such as Fanatec (soon to be bought out by Corsair) and Moza—both of which make comparable, upgradeable kits with an affordability factor that isn't easily passed over.

Corsair has entered into negotiations to acquire Endor AG, the owners of the sim racing specialist Fanatec. The proposed deal will provide a welcome cash injection into Endor AG, which has been struggling under the weight of a €70 million debt.

Should the deal come to fruition, which will require approval by German authorities, it will mark a major play by Corsair into the world of sim racing. Fanatec has a loyal following, and it's one of the premier brands in the sim racing market, with a range of mid-to high-end direct drive bases, wheels, pedals, shifters and cockpits.

In recent years, Fanatec products have faced increased competition from cheaper direct drive alternatives from companies such as Moza. Mainstream brands such as Thrustmaster and Logitech—both major players in the sim racing scene since it began in the mid-1990s—are also betting big on the growth of sim racing and have expanded their ranges with affordable direct drive bases and high quality swappable wheels, so this move by Corsair isn't entirely surprising as a peripheral manufacturer. 

"Fanatec is an incredible brand with a strong community, and we believe Corsair is the ideal home for Fanatec’s loyal customers, employees and business partners," said Corsair CEO, Andy Paul. "This transaction would solve the company's significant debt load and position the company for growth and continued product portfolio expansion."

Fanatec's financial woes left it a prime takeover candidate. It was in the midst of a corporate and financial restructuring prior to the Corsair announcement. Just a few weeks ago, its founder and CEO Thomas Jackermeier was removed from his post after 25 years at the helm, though he remains with the company in a reduced role, and is now focussed on product design and development. Product delays and long shipment lead times heaped more pressure on the company. Hopefully Fanatec can now benefit from Corsair's finely tuned logistics and service expertise.

This news has been (mostly) warmly welcomed by the crowd over at r/simracing, with months of complaints about slow order delivery and agonizing warranty and repair experiences hopefully now in the rear view mirror.

Sim racers are among the most enthusiastic of all gamers, often spending thousands of dollars on equipment on top of thousands more on PCs and monitors. A proper cockpit setup takes up a lot of space too. The latter is part of the reason I never graduated beyond driving with a controller. Blasphemy! Sim racing is something I've always been interested in, and I definitely agree with Andy's sentiments on the joys he gets from sim racing.

Car racing has always been of interest to me. Growing up in a family of motorsport enthusiasts, I've never been far from the smell of petrol, the squeal of rubber on tarmac, or the inevitable swearing that occurs when a favoured driver ends up spinning out in the dust, or plonking their car into the barrier.

However—and here's my first painfully personal admission of this piece—for reasons I don't particularly want to get into, I don't currently have my licence. My wheels have been clamped, my journeys miserably reduced to teeth-grindingly slow public transport, pleading for lifts, or using my own two feet.

Sim racing, then, is an opportunity. A chance to get behind the wheel of cars I could never currently hope to drive, never mind own for myself, and to rag them at their absolute limits. I recently had the chance to review the Moza R5 bundle, a direct drive racing wheel and pedal set that aims to provide the most realistic feedback possible thanks to a powerful, detailed motor that transmits road feel, kerb rumble, and the handling characteristics of your virtual machine directly into your hands. 

This being the case, and wheel firmly gripped, I jumped at the chance to get back in the driving seat, even if only a virtual one.

At first, I practised my skills. The Assetto Corsa version of the Nürburgring (a notoriously challenging circuit located in the hills of the German countryside) was the track I picked to shake off some of the rust from my reflexes. A little Lotus Elise was my steed, and in it I familiarised myself with the basics of driving very fast indeed: try and brake in a straight line, don't overspeed into corners, get on the power at the peak of an apex. Let the car tell you what it wants. Listen to the machine.

Soon, I was up to pace, or at the very least, completing fast laps without embarrassing detours into the grass verges or barriers. Next came racing against AI opponents, and then, once I was confident in my abilities and my reaction times had sharpened, I took to the internet at large, with the sort of mixed results you expect when racing on public servers against opponents of various levels of ability.

But I kept coming back to the Nürburgring, on my own. Not just because the circuit was challenging, or iconic, both of which are true. But there was something about the sheer pleasure of driving the track, feeling out the corners and trying out various different cars, each of them with different characteristics, different ways of responding, different sensations down your wrist.

This, to me, is where sim racing comes into its own. Unlike virtually every other form of interacting with your games, sim racing is about feel.

Here's my second personal admission. I have sometimes, at points in my life, struggled with my mental health. Gradually, over my 36 years, I have learnt various techniques that helped keep me in a mentally good place, one of which is mindfulness. This is the conscious decision to attempt to quieten down your internal monologue, and to think appreciatively about the things around you. To stop and smell the roses, so to speak. To be present.

To my surprise, a great sim racing setup in combination with a good racing game was activating the very same sensation. It was enveloping my senses through the detail of the feedback, the modelling, the sheer encompassing nature of the simulation, and allowing me the space to think, and not think, at exactly the same time. 

By emulating the feeling of simply driving in a fast car, on an empty road, with nothing to do but listen to the noise of the engine, the tires, and tune in to the feedback your car is giving you through the vibrations and movements in the wheel, it was distracting my sometimes self-defeating brain in the best possible way.

I found myself sinking into sim racing before I went to bed in the evening, not because I was desperate to improve my lap times, but because I wanted to relax before I went to sleep. I wanted to go for a drive.

Our interaction with games hasn't really changed a lot since the early days. It's still buttons and thumbsticks, mouse clicks and keyboard clacks, all of which are very subjective. But with the possible exceptions of haptic feedback and the odd bit of controller rumble, what the game wants to tell you, the feedback it's providing, is usually restricted to audio and visual information.

A good direct drive wheel, on the other hand, is entirely physical. It allows a digital object to reach out of the screen, grab your arm forcefully, and convey exactly what it's doing. Beyond being immersive for immersion's sake, when done correctly I found it to be an experience that, while describing it as "moving" might perhaps be too much, was at the very least compelling in a way I hadn't quite experienced before.

More than that, it made me think about why we play games in the first place. For some it's the challenge, the desire to pit your reflexes and your wits against high-level opponents that can really give you a run for your money, and sim racing is brilliant at that. But for me, I primarily play to escape. To exist in virtual worlds, to experience something beyond the mundanity of day-to-day life.

By providing meaningful feedback, meaningful immersion, sim racing has scratched that escapist itch in a way I hadn't experienced before.

It's about the pleasure of the doing of the thing. The joy of tangibly feeling like you're somewhere else, doing something that would be ludicrously difficult, expensive, or even illegal in real life. And thanks to developments in racing wheel technology, it's not simply a case of simulating compelling worlds and objects to interact with. With a good setup, those objects and worlds interact with you.

I can honestly say that in hectic, sometimes stressful times, I've found sim racing to be a blessed relief. I'm still trying to improve my lap times, to increase my awareness of cars around me, to become a better sim racer. The competitive element is there if you want it, and sometimes I do. But no matter what form of sim racing I choose, every time I get up out of the seat I feel calmer, more centred somehow. It's become like mindfulness, like meditation, and like a warm bath after a long day.

Sim racing is changing me a little. It's an additional experience in my life I didn't know I needed, and yet one that I'm grateful for every time I get behind the wheel.

Proper sim racing gear can become very expensive, very quickly. While beginners can be perfectly well-served by something cheap and cheerful like the Logitech  G923, what you're getting there is a gear drive system, which, while capable of delivering a lot of hoots, tends to get a little bit, well, gear-y. The next stage up is hybrid drive that makes use of both gears and a belt, then belt drive systems, and finally you arrive at the top method for delivering virtual car feedback to your fingertips, direct drive.

These systems attach the steering wheel shaft directly to a powerful electric motor, meaning the feedback should be, on a good system, instantaneous and detailed, and the closest thing you'll get to simulating a real car. Unfortunately, a good direct drive system does not come cheap, and for beginners looking to get into the space you'll likely be wondering whether it's really worth it.

Enter, Moza Racing. This is a company that comes from a real-world background of designing and developing automotive chassis technology and active suspension systems for real-life cars, and in 2021 it began creating direct drive sim racing systems. 

There's a wide range of models to choose from, but one that stood out from the off is the very reasonably priced R5 Bundle. For $460/£460, you get a 5 Nm direct drive wheelbase, a racing wheel covered in buttons, and a set of metal-constructed pedals. It's nearest competitor in the space is the Fanatec GT DD Pro, also a 5 Nm bundle with pedal set, however at $700/£600 for the barebones version, it's significantly more expensive.

So, how has Moza managed to keep the price down? Pulling all the gear from the packaging, it's really not obvious. The wheelbase might be small enough to hold in one hand, but you're not going to be holding it there for long as it's a Thor's hammer of an object, tremendously heavy and robustly constructed for such a relatively small package.

Then there's the wheel itself. The diameter might be on the smaller side, but it's thick, leather-wrapped, and made primarily of beautifully machined aluminium. The face buttons are clicky and positive, and the magnetic shifters on the back have a hugely satisfying "clunk" to the action. I spent some time marvelling at how well-made of an object it is, until my partner found me, sitting cross-legged on the carpet in our spare room, playing with a racing wheel like a five-year-old.

Yep, sim racing still has a bit of an embarrassment factor to it, it's true. However, nothing here says children's toy. This is a proper, serious, professional-feeling kit, and given that most pro-racing drivers these days practice for real-life racing using something similar, the decision to make everything feel as premium, chunky and robust as possible without any bright colours or cheap plastics is a welcome one.

To the pedals, then. Given that some sim racing pedal sets can range into the multiple thousands in price, I wasn't expecting much for the money. Imagine my surprise when I hefted from the box a number of heavyweight, thick, metal-constructed components. Flimsy these are not, and they immediately tell you that they're designed to take serious abuse for a very long period of time.

Construction was a happy affair. Moza provides you with plenty of hardware for both the pedals and mounting options, some decent hex keys and, to my relief, mercifully straightforward instructions. Everything slots together with extreme precision, and what you're left with after 15 minutes of tinkering are two robust pedals bolted to a thick metal base and something you could reasonably use as a small boat anchor in a pinch.

However, here's where the extras start factoring in. By default, the accelerator and brake pedal resistance is controlled by a coiled spring behind each unit, with the brake pedal spring providing significantly more heft than the other. However, sim racing aficionados will know that what you really want here is what's called a load-cell mechanism, here referred to as a "Performance Kit" which Moza sells for an additional $29/£29.

This adds a lot more resistance to the pedal, which "loads" as you press down like a real car's braking system. While I was provided one for review, it does strike as something that should be included in the bundle by default. That being said, it's worth mentioning that Fanatec also sells one separately for the GT DD Pro. We'll get to that in a bit, but I did try the pedals both with and without for the sake of comprehensive testing.

Moza also provided an optional SR-P Lite clutch pedal. This bolted into the base the same as the included pedals and is really more of a useful option if you're planning on eventually adding a manual shifter. Still, I mounted it with no issues, and again, tested both with and without.

Also included is a desk clamp, which mounts securely to the bottom of the wheelbase with some included hex bolts, and can then be clamped to a table with two hand-screw extenders. This too is made of serious stuff and is plenty thick in its construction.

Wheelbase clamped to desk, pedals slung underneath and connected via the included cable, I was struck by how well thought out the package appears once all together. It somehow manages to tread the line between being small enough to slot into a regular PC setup, and robust enough to convince you that it costs much more than you actually paid. 

The whole setup feels remarkably solid, and so I eagerly connected the USB cable, installed Moza's Pit House software, clicked a small button on the back of the base to turn it on, and booted up my favourite racing games.

And y'know what? Everything worked. Of course, you'll want to play around with button assignments for the right setup for you—and you're well-catered for there with a total of 18 face buttons and a D-pad on the wheel—however, I tested the R5 with Assetto Corsa, BeamNG.drive and F1 23 with zero configuration issues. 

You'll always want to do a bit of tweaking to get the most out of sim racing gear, but the plug-and-play experience here is brilliant.

The Pit House software is also blissfully straightforward. The default page allows you to adjust force feedback intensity, maximum steering angle and pedal sensitivity all with simple-to-use sliders, and you can also launch games right from the sidebar on the homepage itself.

I had previously wondered whether Moza—being such a new brand to the market—might have some software or driver teething issues, but I encountered no issues at all during testing and found it regularly updated itself to add minor fixes for the latest racing games as they released.

That's a good sign that the company is taking future support seriously, and reassuring to see.

Ah, go on then. The big question: What's it like to drive?

In a word, it is fabulous. First and foremost, let's dispel some illusions early on. With a 5 Nm torque rating, I imagine many of you will be wondering if it's powerful enough compared to something more beefy like the Logitech G Pro, and I wondered very much the same. However, that torque is more than enough to rip the wheel from your hands in a spin or fight your forearms in a tight high-speed corner in a car with heavy steering. 

While I can imagine there are some of you out there with Viking-like arms that might want more, when it comes to realism I actually ended up setting the R5 to 70% intensity in the app, and found that it provided more than enough grunt to wrestle me about in my chair while responding in the way a real car would.

And realism, this motor is capable of delivering in spades. From kerb rumbles to tire-graining, surface changes and more, the R5 has an uncanny ability to transmit the road surface—and exactly what your digital tires are doing on top of it—right up your arms and into your spine with immense immersion and realistic speed. 

More than that, in something like Assetto Corsa and its many, many differently modelled cars, every single one of them feels different the second you pull out of the pit lane.

There's something about the response here that creates an almost spooky effect. With my 32-inch monitor up close, my headphones on and the intensity set to a reasonable level, I'd swear I could feel what the rear of the (non-existent) car was doing behind me. It's uncanny, immersive, and so much fun that even unwilling partners will immediately break out in giggles and grins the second you coerce them into your seat.

Then there's the pedals. I'm under no illusions that a multi-thousand pound set would be better, but that being said, the heavyweight units here feel great. Like all sim racing desk setups, you're going to want something behind them to stop them eventually slipping backwards (although given the substantial rubber grips under the pedal base, they do a better job than most) but the experience they deliver is seamless, robust and satisfying.

So what about the brake pedal, and that optional extra kit? Well, what I was expecting here was for the default spring to be useless and for me to conclude that you absolutely need the load-cell performance kit to be able to brake properly. In reality, perhaps not. The heavier resistance in the standard spring is actually more useable than I expected, but given the load-cell is a mere $29 more in a setup that's already remarkably affordable, I don't see why you wouldn't treat yourself.

The standard brake is better than I was expecting, but the load-cell adds an extra dose of realism for such a reasonable price that you're going to want one anyway. No point doing things by halves here, I reckon, especially given the minimal costs. Be aware though that like all load-cell setups, the extra resistance means the pedals are more inclined to back away from you unless you've pinned them down or mounted them to a frame.

The optional extra clutch pedal? It's great...if you want a clutch pedal. In all honesty, unless you're planning on adding a manual shifter I wouldn't bother, as you can map racing clutch starts to buttons easily in most games that require it, and here you're going to be using the wheel-mounted magnetic shift paddles for gear changes anyway.

Ah, the shifters. I saved my favourite bit for last. Not only are they activated with huge aluminium paddles that feel great to the touch, but they smoothly click and clunk like the trigger on a gun. They're fast, satisfying and crunchy in all the right ways, and a great way of adding mechanical feel to a simulated mechanical experience. My only critique is that they're quite loud, which may annoy your housemates if you're getting a late night session in.

Mind you, they won't be able to hear you shifting over the giggling, anyway. The Moza R5 is so much fun I lost entire weekends to it, and as of writing this review after spending well over a month with the setup, I still am.

Before I let this review fall too far into the "embarrassingly gushing" category, the R5 Bundle isn't entirely without fault. I did have an issue with mounting the pedals to a Logitech Playseat Challenge X, as both the mounting hardware included with the seat and the many options provided with the Moza kit didn't give me bolts that were quite long enough. A quick trip to a DIY store solved that, but it's something to bear in mind.

Also, given that the wheelbase unit itself is smaller than most, a trawl through the sim racing forums revealed that in some high-level setups, some frame modification was required to mount it, depending on what sort of sim rig you own, as there's little standardisation between frame mount spacings as things stand.

Many had no issues, but you could also use the desk clamp to mount to a frame if you find yourself stuck, and adaptor plates are available for around $15 if you need differently spaced holes for your particular model.

Other than that? Nope, I loved it. While the Fanatec GT DD Pro is also an excellent entry point into direct drive racing I really don't see what it does better than the R5 bundle, and for significantly more cash. Factoring in the load-cell pedal in both bundles means the R5 setup becomes $489, and the DD Pro becomes $840 thanks to its own CSL Pedal kit which is an astonishing $140 extra.

That's a saving of $350 on a direct drive wheel, pedals and load-cell bundle that's just as powerful and just as well made as the Fanatec package. Pretty easy decision that one, even for someone as terrible at maths as me. That also leaves plenty of money left over for a good sim racing seat, to stop those pedals moving about once and for all.

Thanks to Moza's magnetic quick-release system, there's also a clear upgrade path if you fancy strapping on a different wheel in future, too.

This is everything you could want in a direct drive starter setup, for much less than the competition, with very few drawbacks. It's astonishing fun and has turned me from a sim racing novice into the sort of person that straps themselves in for a weekend playing pretend cars because it's a damn good time.

My social life may well be feeling the pinch, but as for my facial muscles, thanks to the little Moza, they're getting quite the workout. Superb.

Fanatec has delayed the release of its upcoming ClubSport DD+ racing wheel base due to a slow licensing process at Sony, the company has told customers awaiting the product. Originally expected to arrive with customers in December, the DD+ is now in a limbo until Fanatec can square it away with the console giant.

"The ClubSport DD+ is the first product on the market incorporating Sony’s new security electronics," an email sent to pre-order customers from Fanatec says. "Consequently, the product approval procedures are comprehensive and time-consuming. Initially we expected to receive this approval sooner. To date, we are still waiting for it, which is why we are currently unable to ship your order."

"We hope to have an update on the matter by mid-January and are doing whatever we can to expedite the approval process and deliver this exciting new product to you as quickly as possible."

I've reached out to Fanatec to ask for any further information it can share on the specific cause of the delay.

Speaking to one customer awaiting their order originally expected around December 27, I was pointed to a Fanatec forum thread from October in which Fanatec notes that this console licensing is still subject to Sony's final product approval. It also notes in an update to that same thread that pre-orders had opened with the exception of Japan, specifically due to licensing reasons in the country.

Licensing can be tricky. It was only recently that Microsoft announced it would crack down on third-party wireless controllers, and I recommend anyone check out this article from Duncan Robertson over at GamesRadar regarding what the licensing process actually looks like in light of that decision. Note the specific part about dedicated and proprietary chipsets required for PlayStation and Xbox pads. Also the bit about the regular meetings with representatives.

With that in mind, Fanatec has sold officially licensed Sony products in the past including the Gran Turismo DD Pro and Podium lines, which suggests it likely had a good idea of the licensing process going into production and the timeframes related to that. It is also working closely with Sony. From the aforementioned statement, it sounds like Sony's new security electronics have thrown the company an unexpected curveball and one that even a company with some experience in the matter didn't see coming. That happens sometimes, but judging from the reaction to the delay from those affected the messaging could and should have been clearer.

A tricky pill to swallow for customers is why they were given an expected ship date starting in December for a product pre-ordered in October which in January has a licensing issue for which there is no firm later shipping date. Those pre-orders sure do sound like they went live prematurely in my view, but I've asked Fanatec if this is normal practice and I'll update if I hear anything back on this point.

There are two sizeable threads on the Fanatec subreddit (thread one, thread two) filled with complaints about the handling of the delay. A couple of users report they have cancelled orders but many more are wondering why it's only clear now that this licensing issue persists.

The DD+ wheel base has been developed to comply with the official licensing program requirements for PlayStation 5 and PlayStation 4 consoles. This is an issue with the more powerful 15Nm (Newton-metre, a unit of torque) ClubSport DD+ model only. The lower power 12Nm DD model does not offer PlayStation support. 

In the end, what this all means is PC users are left waiting on a part that's held up by Sony approval they don't actually need, and PlayStation users are left to look elsewhere. When the ClubSport DD+ does arrive it should be an impressive unit. I'm a fan of the older CSL DD wheel base and this one appears better in pretty much every way. But I can see why some might be looking elsewhere for their next upgrade.

At least there's the Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel that's PlayStation compatible and rocking up to 11Nm?  Silver linings…

New force sim racing manufacturer MOZA has caused quite a stir recently. Previously direct drive wheels that offered the strongest and most detailed force feedback were prohibitively expensive, so unless you were on the books at Team Redline or had limitless funds to pursue sim racing as a hobby, you were limited to non-DD, belt-and-gear wheel bases. Not so anymore.

Adding to MOZA’s affordable R12 and R9 platforms, the upcoming R3 bundle features the R3 direct drive wheel base, a PC and Xbox-compatible ES steering wheel and SR-P Lite pedal set for $399. 

That’s such good value that there isn’t even a competitor in the same price range - Thrustmaster’s most affordable direct drive setup costs over $400 for the wheel base alone, and MOZA adds to that value proposition with Xbox compatibility with this R3 bundle, so if you dabble in console racing too you’re covered. 

In terms of force feedback strength, it’s outputting 3.9nM of torque. It’s not going to rip your arms off with that output, and while it’s down on power versus MOZA’s pricier R9 with 9nM of torque, compared to an entry-level model like Logitech’s ever-popular G923 with around 2.2 of peak torque delivered via a belt-and-gear mechanism, you can see that $399 buys you a lot. 

It’s also a really compact wheel base, so you shouldn’t have any trouble fitting it into a race seat or mounting it to a desk setup. It’s finished in aerospace-grade aluminium, and earns bonus points for a passing resemblance to the original Xbox.

Why is direct drive important in the first place? Mechanically, it’s able to deliver you feedback from the car in racing sims quicker and more precisely, and that means it feels closer to the real thing. You can catch the rear slipping out on a corner exit that bit faster and apply some countersteering. You know when you’re out on the kerbs fractionally earlier. You feel the weight of the car transferring back to front under braking, and then laterally as you turn in. And in an ultra-competitive setting like a racing sim, the quicker you feel the sensations, the quicker you can drive. 

MOZA hasn’t been in the racing simulator game as long as some other brands, but their wheels are fully compatible with all the sim racing staples. So you needn’t worry about that nightmare control menu scenario where your game stares back at you blankly, refusing to recognise the inputs and axes you’re showing it. ACC, Automobilista 2, the Dirt Rally, Project CARS and F1 series are all covered on PC. Even Euro Truck Sim 2 recognises it. Better bust out the sunscreen on that left arm. 

The ES wheel bundled in this deal is crafted with durable ISF grips and an aluminium alloy framework, and features an RGB sequential shifter light and 22 programmable buttons. The SRP Lite Pedals, meanwhile, have a precision angle sensor and feature steel construction. 

MOZA has plans to release an SDK to its community this October, giving third-party devs the chance to build middleware programs and find new ways to control MOZA devices. It’s a cool idea, open-sourcing sim racing hardware. MOZA’s software is already surprisingly customisable and in-depth versus its competitors, and if the SDK program bears fruit you can expect that to only improve into 2024.

You can find out more at Gamescom on August 23rd when the R3 bundle, the GT steering wheel, truck steering wheel and sequential shifters are officially unveiled. The products are due to launch early in 2024.

If I'd known that even an entry-level racing wheel stand would fix my biggest complaints with sim racing at home, I'd have bought one a lot sooner. The Dark Matter GT Foldable Racing Wheel Stand from Monoprice has done just that, however, and all for the reasonable price of $153.

What is my biggest problem with sim racing at home? My pedals slipping or shifting away from my feet under braking. It's a constant concern of mine as someone with the choice of either fluffy carpet or slippery faux-stone flooring, neither of which any pedals seem to be able to adhere to. It's been the scourge of my sim racing career. Or what there is of one.

Some pedals have performed better than others in this regard. The newer Logitech Pro Racing Pedals are pretty hefty and have a steady base, and if you set up the Fanatec CSL Pedals LC correctly, with a wide-enough stance, they're not so bad either. But, generally, I find all moves with time, and it gets in my head while racing.

I've tried all sorts of DIY fixes to rectify the issue, including at one point grabbing a log of wood and stuffing it between my pedal set and the wall. Just the right sized log would snugly fit for a decent setup, however, wasn't immune to the odd slippage now and then. Also that only really worked in the setup I had at the time, and now I'm nowhere near a wall to prop the pedals up against.

For all the high-end sim racing cockpits out there, including the Playseat Trophy Logitech G Edition I'm also testing, it turns out a foldable racing wheel stand such as this one from Monoprice was all I actually needed. It's in no way as snazzy or comfortable over long periods as the Playseat, which I'm sitting in as I type this, and it won't place you into a proper racing position, either. But it's pretty affordable, fits my wheel comfortably, and conveniently folds down to a storable size.

The most important thing is that the Dark Matter GT stays in place when I slam on the brake pedal. I've screwed the T3PM pedal set from the Thrustmaster T248 to the base and now it's firmly locked in no matter how much I stab at it.

Honestly, it's brought back a lot of joy in sim racing for me, and I didn't entirely grasp how much pedals that move about all over the place under braking affected my desire to get my racing wheel out until now.

As for the Dark Matter GT, it's a fairly stripped back concept. There's no chair component, like you would see on many cockpits, so you'll have to provide your own (may I recommend one without wheels). It's simply a foldable frame for the wheel base, pedals, and a shifter, if you have one.

Setup was quick and painless. The core frame comes mostly assembled, and it's only the hinge covers and a few smaller pieces you need to add on yourself. No part of the job is particularly fiddly, and I had the whole thing put together in 15 minutes.

The wheel base mount has screw holes for a few different base layouts, but notably fewer than the Playseat, which has loads more compatibility. Still, for a cheaper base with a desk mount like the one I was using, the Thrustmaster T128, it's the perfect fit. That's because it appears to have been specially designed to support the desk clamp included with the cheaper Thrustmaster wheels, and the under-desk clamps fit snugly and level.

The included pedals with the T128 didn't actually fit the Dark Matter GT, but I'm chalking that up to this pedal set being a bit rubbish rather than a reflection of the stand. The T248's T3PM pedals fit just fine. If you really had to, you definitely could drill a couple screw holes into the mount easily and make just about anything work.

There's height adjustment on the Dark Matter GT to make it a better fit for your height, and as a 6'2" guy I found the longest setting the best fit. 

You can also adjust the angle of the pedals using the three provided notches. I've stuck with the middle option for now, but I'm thinking of going for a less aggressive angle by putting it down a notch. It's just a little too steep for my liking.

Those adjustments are all easy to do, and that's because there's not much to mess up with the Dark Matter GT. It's a lot simpler to build and adjust than the Logitech G Playseat, that's for sure, but noticeably less robust. The Dark Matter GT feels solid while you're racing, but I wouldn't be too heavy handed with it when setting it up and putting it away.

For my purposes, the Dark Matter GT has been a great fit. Admittedly it feels a little overpriced just because of the quality of some of the parts, even though it's not that expensive in the grand scheme of racing setups. Still, it serves its purpose well.

The Thrustmaster T128 is the budget racing wheel to buy. I'll go into more details as to why, of course, but I wanted to make that very clear from the start of this review. If you've landed here because you needed a bit more reinforcement before you checkout, you got it. It's fantastic for the money.

At $200/£170, the T128 is the latest in a long line of successful entry-level racing wheels from Thrustmaster. Our previous pick for the best budget racing wheel was the Thrustmaster TMX Force Feedback, but the T128 is an improvement in every way on that aged design.

The key to the T128's success is that it shares the same Hybrid Drive system as found in the Thrustmaster T248. This drive is a combination of both gear and belt-driven force feedback, and while Thrustmaster has toned down the power on the T128 drive versus the T248, it's still noted as being 20% more powerful than the TMX.

My first impression of the hybrid drive on the T128 was just how smooth it is as you throw it around. It avoids the pitfalls of a purely geared system, which often feels clunkier, and feels much better for it. 

While absolutely miles behind the best racing wheels in power, I really am impressed by how much grunt it has for its diminutive size. Wheel bases have shrunk a lot in recent years, as the technology, especially direct drive, has improved, but even on this hybrid drive system it's impressive how much bite it has for its footprint. If you hit a curb, you'll notice.

The most important part of the hybrid drive for me is how the resistance feels throughout the wheel as you turn it. It's great for accuracy while driving, and for developing your skills around a particular track. I've said the same thing for the T248, and it absolutely still applies here, but I feel like I can build on my lap times and make small adjustments to my cornering with that resistance and feedback through the wheel. That's great for more competitive racing games, such as F1 22 or Assetto Corsa. It's not so great for more fun-focused games like Forza Horizon. It's stiff, and throwing your car into a drift is easier on a looser wheel, namely the Logitech G923.

For the T128 to deliver that level of accuracy in a racing wheel on the cheaper side of things I'm really impressed.

There are a few things you should note about the T128, however. For starters, I did notice I made more errors while racing with the T128 than the T818 I was using only hours before. The difference in price between these two is astronomical, however, and I'm not supposing one is a swap-in for the other. But while this feels an accurate and responsive wheel, there's still a lot to gain with a larger wheel and much more powerful base.

The other is the build quality. The Thrustmaster T248 felt cheap versus the Logitech G923, and the T128 feels a whole lot cheaper than even that. There's no grip around the circumference of the wheel, which is sadly non-removable like the T248, and the buttons are made of a very cheap feeling plastic. I don't fear for its longevity, but I do feel it'll show signs of wear with time quicker than others. And the lack of grip isn't great if your palms get sweaty.

On the flipside, I do like the rev indicator provided by four different coloured lights, an obvious visual cue while racing, and there are plenty of face buttons within easy reach.

Then there's the paddle shifters. These are magnetic numbers on the T128, and noticeably cheaper feeling than the T248's or G923's. However, I never missed a shift while using them, and they're quick to return when you hit them. These are really decent for entry-level paddles.

The T128's biggest letdown are its pedals. The twin-pedal T2PM set comes included and it doesn't feel great under foot. It's lightweight, plasticky, and moves about a lot while you're racing. That was especially frustrating as I thought I had a fix for that, the Monoprice Dark Matter GT Foldable Racing Wheel Stand, but there's no way to attach the cheap pedal set to it. The screw holes just don't line up.

Seeing as the much improved T3PM pedals are $100, which is half the price of the entire T128 kit, I can see why Thrustmaster hasn't included anything better. But that's definitely an upgrade I'd be keen to make with the T128 down the line.

Otherwise, the T128 is a stellar entry-level racing wheel. With more power than I had expected, and a much smoother action, this wheel is a really wonderful way of breaking into the sim racing scene without breaking into a bank. Make no mistake, this is the best budget racing wheel to buy in 2023.

A direct drive wheel base is the best way to experience a racing game, and we're at a point in time when they're becoming smaller, better, and more affordable. The Thrustmaster T818 is a prime example of this new DD generation, and it packs a serious punch.

The Thrustmaster T818 will set you back $650 (£600), which appears deceivingly cheap for the darling of sim racing tech but that's only for the wheel base. You'll need to provide your own wheel and pedal set. That's obviously going to tack on a lot more money to the overall cost if you need to buy every piece new. However, if you already have a T300 setup, for example, take the wheel and pedals right off that and plug them into the T818—it's compatible with all of Thrustmaster's standardised plug and play parts.

I've been using the $180 Open Wheel Add-On for my testing, but I'm also borrowing a set of $100 T3PM pedals from the Thrustmaster T248 I use at home. This all worked great with the T818—the back-to-basics wheel is all you need for F1 racing and the pedals are responsive and snappy. 

All which goes to show you don't need to spend heaps of money on everything else to build a good setup around the T818.

In an ideal world I'd have paired a set of T-LCM pedals with a load-cell brake alongside the T818, as the T3PM is lacking next to the Logitech Pro Racing Pedals I'm comparing against. But the beauty is here you could make that leap when you can afford it. Thrustmaster allows you to build up a premium setup piece-by-piece, which I really value being able to do.

For most of my testing I've been using the wheel loaded into the Logitech G Playseat cockpit. Mounting into the cockpit wasn't as easy as I'd thought it would be, however. The screw holes on the underside of the T818 don't align with any on the Playseat, which is quite a feat as there are heaps of screw holes with compatibility for all sorts of different bases. Thankfully, Thrustmaster sent over the desk mounting kit which includes a stand that aligns with two screw holes on the cockpit, but it sets the wheel at a slight tilt.

Thrustmaster actually sells a separate cockpit mounting plate for the T818 on its website for $40, which seems like a lot for what is effectively a metal adapter plate and a handful of screws you probably have plenty of already.

The two-screw desk mounting plate holds the wheel firm, anyways. And you get the option of mounting this to a desk if need be. I gave that a whirl, too, and it's a pretty simple clamp system that holds firm. It's only slightly limited by the 60mm height of the metal clamps that go around the table edge, so make sure to measure your desk before you buy.

The T818 is a fairly simple setup. Within the FFB Racing Wheel software you can update the firmware and access the control panel. It's here that you might want to tweak the overall force feedback strength, as it's set to just 50% by default. To push it higher than that, you have to unlock the slider, which will set off a warning to let you know that this is for trained adult drivers only. This also unlocks two extra modes, Performance and Extreme. With only two screws holding the wheel to the cockpit, I am a little cautious to crank the force feedback up to 100%, so I've settled at 60%.

I needn't have cranked it up, however. With up to 10Nm of torque coursing through the direct drive motor on the T818, it's extremely powerful under hand. It really shows next to the Fanatec CSL DD at just 5Nm (up to 8Nm with a kit sold separately, which I don't have)—the Thustmaster absolutely throws this compact wheel around. It feels excellent. It's also only a touch under the 11Nm on offer by the much pricier Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel, and I didn't notice that small difference in power, I'd guess because of the lightweight wheel I've installed on the Thrustmaster.

The wide selection of compatible wheels and add-ons already on offer by Thrustmaster is one of the reasons you might want the T818 in the first place. It's here that the T818 has the Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel beat, and for open-wheel style add-ons you're sorted for options that'll fit.

The T818 does feel the cheapest of the direct drive bases I've tested, however, despite being more expensive than the base CSL DD by some margin, namely for the plastic parts connecting base to wheel. Thrustmaster say these parts, such as the handy Fast Release lever, keep down on weight, which I can definitely see being the case, but it's definitely short of the metal construction used on the cheaper Fanatec option. That's something you'll have to come to terms with on the T818—it's a good deal for a 10Nm direct drive base but not the most polished product to look at.

A solid middle-of-the-road option, nonetheless, the T818 is a great upgrade for anyone that's already bought into the Thrustmaster ecosystem. However, if you're starting your sim racing setup from scratch, I'd still recommend the Fanatec CSL DD as the better and somewhat more affordable option.

F1 driver for Williams Racing and apparent Call of Duty player Alex Albon recently described what it's like to drive an F1 car using an example most of us will understand well: aim sensitivity in Call of Duty. 

Albon wrote about his career and struggles as an F1 driver in a blog post on The Players' Tribune. Most of the post focused on his time as the number two driver at Red Bull and his inability to feel comfortable in a race car designed around his teammate and current F1 champion, Max Verstappen (who has a sim racing rig inside his private jet).

"This isn’t to throw shade at anyone at Red Bull Racing or Max or anything, honestly. But the car is set up in a unique way that is built around the lead driver, and that's Max," wrote Albon. 

The driver said that he's no stranger to cars with a lot of front-end sensitivity and preferred it, but that the Red Bull car was different. "There was so much nose on the thing that if you blew on the wheel, the car would turn," Albon wrote. "If you play Call of Duty or a game like that, turn your sensitivity up to the highest it will go. That's what it's like to drive that car."

We all know what it’s like to play a first-person game with the mouse sensitivity cranked up, and I can only imagine what it would be like to drive a racecar that can hit a speed of 231 mph with that much steering sensitivity. This would explain some of the nasty crashes we saw from Albon in 2020 in that Red Bull.

He's not complaining, though. Albon said that he "completely" understands why the car had to be that way. "Max was, at the time, a future world champion," he wrote. "It was clear for all to see. So, of course, you're going to build your car how he likes."

Albon ended seventh on points in the World Drivers' Championship that season and then was demoted to a reserve driver for Red Bull in 2021, losing his seat to Sergio Pérez. Albon joined Willams Racing in 2022, finished 19th in the standings, and is awaiting the start of the new F1 season, with its opening race beginning March 5 at the Bahrain GP. 

Logitech has made a name for itself in affordable PC racing wheels over the years, no more so than with the G29. You might also know its G920. Or the G923. Admittedly, there have been many cranks of the wheel for what's all but the same product over the years—"if it ain't broke, don't fix it"—but I promise you the new driving gear on my desk today are anything but the same old thing respun with a different number attached to it.

The Logitech Pro Racing Wheel and Pro Racing Pedals are a frightfully powerful combination for sim racing. The gear-driven motor system so often found in Logitech's racing wheels is gone. In its stead, the Pro Racing Wheel comes with a direct drive motor that will shake you all the way down to your little racing booties.

Need proof of that? Logitech's Pro Racing Wheel delivers a staggering 11Nm (Newton metres) of torque. That's a massive amount of power to throw behind a racing wheel for a PC. If I hadn't already rigorously stress tested my largely cardboard Ikea desk by standing on it multiple times to reach for something dangerously high up, I'd have suspected it would've ripped it in two by the sheer strength of the wheelbase motor. At the very least, it's more than enough power to ignite that feeling of being behind the wheel of a race car as you throw it nose-first into a corner at high-speed (or perhaps into a barrier).

While there are direct drive wheelbases that can deliver torque in excess of 25Nm, the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel is comparatively powerful in its price bracket. Compared to the Fanatec CSL DD I have to hand, the Logitech's 11Nm appears practically immense next to the Fanatec's baseline 5Nm. However, the Fanatec wheelbase is capable of delivering up to 8Nm torque with a secondary adapter for extra dosh.

In regards to price, the Fanatec CSL DD 5nm kit is a little cheaper than the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel at $700, or $850 with the beefed up 8Nm boost kit, and it also comes with pedals. Whereas the Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel will set you back $1000, and if you want its excellent pedals as well, you'll have to buy them separately for $350.

I certainly prefer to set up my racing wheel knowing that I'm going to be able to extract all the performance out of it right out of the box, though the Logitech does appear the less flexible option of the two considering its premium cost. There's more wiggle room in the cost of a Fanatec package, depending on what you want out of it.

There are other reasons you might want to consider Logitech beyond a raw power advantage, however.

For starters, the Pro Racing Pedal set is absolutely superb. Yes, it is sold separately, and no it's not exactly cheap. But it's actually quite a good offer for the price. This is a three-pedal set, including two metal plated brake and clutch pedals and a large gas pedal. That's not the best bit, though the inclusion of a clutch pedal as standard is much appreciated. The best bit is that the brake is a load-cell brake, which is something of a must-have feature for a racing sim fan that wants to really mimic the feeling of a race car's brake system. Where a cheaper pedal might measure through travel, alongside a spring to add resistance, a load-cell brake measures via pressure. For that, it is a far closer match to real-life. Trust me, you can feel the difference in action.

Not only does the Pro Racing Pedals come with a load-cell brake but it also feels superb under foot. The construction of the pedal set is unlike anything else I've used. It's very smartly designed to hide away any cables and make it so it's a simple and quick job to shift the location of each pedal to your preference. You just need to loosen a handful of bolts and you can shift the pedals side to side, which amounts to a quicker and more granular adjustment process than on the Fanatec CSL pedal set.

As I mentioned before, the load cell is the ideal brake system for replicating the feel of a real race car's braking system, but it does come with a stipulation in order to use it effectively: you need to fix or butt it against something to make sure it's secure, as a load-cell brake will require you to hoof the pedal with all your might to engage it.

While relatively stable by comparison to many of the racing wheels I've tested lately—including those from Thrustmaster, Logitech, and Fanatec—there's really no getting away from the gradual slipping that will happen in some capacity when you put your full weight on the brake pedal. For better results, you'll want to butt the pedal set up against the wall or install it within a larger frame. I went for the former and it worked a treat, though I'm eyeing up a more permanent racing rig solution. Just need to find somewhere to put it first.

Upwards from the pedals, Logitech has paid similar attention to detail in crafting the racing wheel itself. The wheel is fully removable and comes with a quick release so you can feel like the real deal as you disembark your machine at the end of a long and tiring race. Or if you want to throw your wheel away in pure rage because someone smashed into the back of your car for the upteenth time in an online F1 22 lobby and you can't actually believe it's happened again. Why can nobody make it around the first corner?! 

Sorry, but it seems even the best racing wheel in the world won't teach you to back off and fight another day.

Anyways, the wheel is available in either PlayStation or Xbox livery. There are only small differences, namely button labels, so you're free to pick your poison. Both work just fine on PC, so PC gamers needn't worry about compatibility, but I've opted for the PlayStation version for this review.

The Pro Racing Wheel comes in at 300mm in diameter, which is on the larger side, though I have found it to be a good fit for a wide range of racing games despite its size. It's certainly very comfortable to use over long periods and for relatively disparate driving experiences: I've been testing across F1 22 and WRC 10, two racing games that couldn't be further from one another, and the wheel is accurate and responsive in both. Though they are actually seeing the wheel as two fundamentally different things.

You see, one of the strengths of buying one of Logitech's more popular racing wheels is that, as they're so popular, they're very widely supported in racing games. With a new wheel like the Pro, there's no longer a fully-functioning preset for your wheel ready and raring to go as you boot a game. That can sometimes mean you just have to make one yourself, as is the case with F1 22, and Logitech has created a very handy webpage that will guide you through the best way to go about it. But in other games, like WRC 10, you will need to engage compatibility mode, or essentially, G923 mode.

A compatibility mode isn't exactly a wild new idea in the world of racing wheels, many wheels offer them, but they are a handy technique to ensure functionality with a wider range of games. Those games that may have once been a complete nightmare to add wheel support to. You're already thinking of Forza, but I'm not going to say it. 

I mention compatibility mode because when you read this next part, you should bear in mind that some of the functionality isn't available in G923 mode, though most of the important stuff is.

The G Pro Wheel is highly customisable. Either through the Logitech G app, or, as I found myself doing most often, via the display on the wheel base itself. From here, it's easy to adjust settings on a per-game basis. You can even set up multiple profiles to keep track of these settings for each game, including options to adjust force feedback, Trueforce feedback, maximum wheel rotation, brake pedal sensitivity, and even what you want to use the second set of paddles on the rear of the wheel. These are stored on the wheel base too.

Speaking of which, this is another of the features that is worth talking about on the Pro Racing Wheel. You have your traditional paddle shifters on the rear of the Pro Racing Wheel but also dual clutch paddles beneath. The gear shifters use a magnetic actuation, which makes for incredibly swift and tactile response, however, the dual clutch paddles are a more gentle actuation. Though that's handy for nailing smoother starts off the line. Though that's only half the story. Via the aforementioned settings on the wheel base, you can set these dual clutch paddles to act as different functions. Perhaps the best use I've found for it is using the clutch paddle as a handbrake in games where that might be required. For someone like me without a dedicated handbrake accessory, this feature is great for nailing drifts (or trying to).

Though as I said before, that awesome customisable paddle functionality is only available if you're opting to run in Pro mode, and not G923 mode. And unfortunately games like Forza and WRC, which I find myself trying to drift in, are better suited to G923 mode. You can try and program your own controls in these games using the Pro mode if you don't mind tinkering for 20 minutes before gaming, however, so don't completely discount your favourite racing games if they're only recommended with G923 mode.

There is so much customisation on offer with the Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel and Pedals and it's all within easy reach. Even the impressive force feedback can be adjusted to better take advantage of the information available to it on a per-game basis, and I'm talking about Logitech's own Trueforce rumble feedback feature here, too.

Trueforce isn't necessarily a reason to buy a racing wheel, but I'll take it when offered. It's effectively a way in which minor, let's say, atmospheric rumbles are picked up from the game engine and translated through the wheel into your hands and arms. It'll change how you perceive driving on a gravel road to smooth asphalt, or if you lose control and veer into grass becoming a very expensive, high-speed lawnmower. You'll feel the difference, and it's a neat effect.

But I'm impressed with the Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel and Pedals. Not only because of the serious step up in performance that this set offers over Logitech's more popular G923-style models, but also that a direct drive wheelbase and high-quality wheel feels a very obvious step forward for Logitech's racing wheels if done correctly, and Logitech has absolutely done it correctly here. I have no qualms about recommending the Pro Racing Wheel and Pedals for the racing rookie looking to level up their sim experience, or indeed even a more seasoned racer with ageing kit that needs a lick more power. 

However, I will say there's still absolutely a place for more modular kits, such as those from the likes of Fanatec. The ability to piece together a racing sim rig over time, starting off with a cheaper, upgradeable unit, does appeal to me on a more practical level, and there's no getting away from the complete Logitech solution's $1,350 price tag all-in. That's a lot of money to drop in one lump sum.

But I wouldn't say you would come away disappointed had you spent that money on this racing wheel. The Logitech Pro Racing kit feels as much a high-end offering in power and performance as it should for the price, and it'll come as no surprise that every detail and every material screams premium, long-lasting quality as we've come to expect from Logitech over the years.

I've burned rubber with all the best PC racing wheels to see which one earns first place on the podium. All the wheels included in this guide have been put through their paces in a range of racing games, and from that time in-game, I've decided on the best to buy across a wide range of budgets—from mighty direct drive bases to affordable wheel and pedal combos.

The absolute best PC racing wheel is the Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel. It has a gigantic 11 Nm of direct drive torque for plenty of detailed steering feedback without clipping, an easy-to-use interface, well-placed buttons, and a fantastic pedal set, although you do have to buy them separately. The best budget racing wheel is the Thrustmaster T128, a hybrid drive wheel with superb paddle shifters and a good amount of responsive grunt, along with plenty of wheel-mounted buttons for all your in-game controls.

Generally, cheaper setups tend to have gear-driven systems, and the quality of that system can vary somewhat. Direct drive, however, attaches you directly to a powerful motor, giving a much more accurate driving feel. Direct drive is where you want to be for ultimate immersion, but cheaper setups will do you just fine for starters.

A racing wheel is one of the best PC gaming buys, and I've tried out tons of wheels to get a handle on which ones are worth your hard-earned cash. You don't have to spend a lot to tear up the tarmac, but you can always amp up your setup with a wheel and pedal stand, like the Playseat Trophy.

Best racing wheel

The Logitech Pro Racing Wheel and Pro Racing Pedals is our pick for the best racing wheel, as it's a frightfully powerful combination for sim racing. The gear-driven motor system so often found in Logitech's racing wheels is gone. In its stead, the Pro Racing Wheel comes with a direct drive motor that will shake you all the way down to your little racing booties.

The Pro Racing Wheel delivers a staggering 11 Nm (Newton-metres) of torque. That's a huge amount of power, and while the absolute top units can put out 25 Nm of torque, 11 Nm is more than enough to throw you around in your seat if you let it.

Logitech's wheel can give you a truly race-car-like experience thanks to its ability to really make you feel like you've got some huge tyres under your hands, although some will prefer to turn it down a bit to take some of the strain off your poor little forearms. Not me, though, I'm big and strong.

Compared to the Fanatec CSL DD, Logitech's 11 Nm is much more powerful next to Fanatec's baseline 5 Nm. However, the Fanatec wheelbase can deliver up to 8 Nm torque with a secondary adapter for extra dosh.

You'll need to spend a bit more cash on the Logitech if you want the full experience as well, as the pedals come separately. That being said, while the Pro Racing Pedal set is absolutely brilliant, it's not exactly cheap. But given what you get here, the pedals are actually pretty good value for what you end up receiving. This is a three-pedal set, including two metal-plated brake and clutch pedals and a large gas pedal.

The inclusion of a clutch pedal as standard is much appreciated, as that provides you with a lot more options. However, the real icing on the cake is the load-cell brake, which mimics the feeling of a real car's braking system and provides a huge dose of immersion. Once you've used a load-cell brake kit, you won't want to use anything else.

Another highlight is the dual-clutch paddles beneath the already brilliant shifters. These are for games where a racing-style clutch is required for launching the car at the start, like F1 23, and you can customise them to your heart's content for all sorts of uses.

In the past, one of the bigger downsides of the Pro wheel was that you were locked into a style and feel. Logitech has since put out a whole host of accessories—check our reviews for the G RS Wheel Hub + Track Wheel and the RS Shifter + Handbrake to see just how much you can customize the base setup.

That brings us to the price. There's no getting around it, it's a lot of money to spend on a PC peripheral, and if you're looking to spend less—but won't settle for less than direct drive—the Moza R5 below is more your speed.

However, the Logitech Pro Racing kit feels as much a high-end offering in power and performance as it should for the price, and it'll come as no surprise that every detail and every material screams premium, long-lasting quality as we've come to expect from Logitech over the years.

It's our overall best racing wheel for a reason, and all that power, convenience, detail, and build quality make it our absolute top pick for PC racing wheel bliss.

Read our full Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel and G Pro Pedals review.

Best budget racing wheel

The Thrustmaster T128 is the best budget racing wheel to buy right now. Our previous pick for the best budget racing wheel was the Thrustmaster TMX Force Feedback, but the T128 is an improvement in every way on that aged design.

The key to the T128's success is that it shares the same Hybrid Drive system as found in the Thrustmaster T248. This drive is a combination of both gear and belt-driven force feedback, and while Thrustmaster has toned down the power on the T128 drive versus the T248, it's still noted as being 20% more powerful than the TMX.

My first impressions were that the hybrid drive on the T128 is incredibly smooth, unlike purely geared systems, which often feel clunkier. It doesn't come close to some of the best racing wheels in terms of power, but I'm genuinely impressed by its grunt considering its size. You'll definitely notice if you hit a curb.

Resistance feels great throughout the wheel as you turn it, too, which makes it plenty accurate for driving and developing your skills around a particular track. Cornering adjustments feel precise, especially compared to a gear-driven setup. The hybrid system is a huge improvement over gear systems, for sure.

However—and this is no surprise given the cheap cost—the T128 feels a little cheap. It doesn't have any grip around the wheel, and the wheel is non-removable. The buttons are made of a very cheap-feeling plastic, too. It will probably last, but it will also likely show some wear and tear with time quicker than more premium options. This lack of grip isn't wonderful for sweaty palms, either.

The T128's pedals are also pretty poorly thought-out. The T2PM twin-pedal set may be included, but it doesn't feel fantastic under your feet: lightweight, plasticky, and prone to moving around a lot.

The T3PM pedals are $100, and these are much better. This is half the price of the entire T128 kit, so I can see why Thrustmaster hasn't gone for something better in this price bracket. But those of you looking to upgrade in the future will want to start with the pedals first, as they're the most obvious way to improve your immersion, and very likely your lap times too.

Otherwise, the T128 is a genuinely brilliant entry-level racing wheel. It's decently powerful, smooth, and a good way to break into sim racing without spending a whole heap of cash.

Read our full Thrustmaster T128 review.

Best mid-range racing wheel

The Thrustmaster T248 is a far more budget-friendly option than even the cheapest direct drive wheel, and our pick for the best mid-range racing wheel right now. The force feedback it delivers is a lot more impressive than you might expect, and it's exceptionally accurate.

Inside the T248, you'll find a hybrid force feedback system that utilizes a gear alongside a belt. That covers the downsides of the geared system, which has been known to feel clunky at times but still has all the benefits of a belt system. Plus, that keeps it cheap.

The Hybrid Drive feels like a smart move on Thrustmaster's behalf once you get this wheel set up, too; as compared to a purely gear-driven motor, there's a lot of power and response delivered through the wheel while racing.

However, the T248's hybrid system has appeared to come at the expense of some of the finer touches. The build looks and feels cheap. Similarly, it's awfully loud, especially the shifter paddles. These are, however, incredibly responsive. A worthy trade-off? Yes, so long as you don't need to keep the noise down too much.

It is quite a heavy-feeling wheel, though, and you have to really work at it with some force to turn a sharp corner at high speed. If you don't have it set up right for some cars in Assetto Corsa: Competizione—where the wheel rotation is much smaller—it can be a bit of a struggle to turn the T248 as needed. However, you can make things a little easier on yourself by spending some more time tweaking the settings.

Compared to direct drive units like the Fanatec GT DD Pro, you're looking at a much weaker response in the T248, despite this heavy resistance. It can come across as a little muted when you're throwing it around rocky terrain. Yet there's not much out there for this kind of cash that will appeal to more casual gamers and more experienced racers than the T248. Perhaps the T300RS—with its hot-swappable wheel and belt-driven force feedback—but then you're missing out on some of the mod cons of the T248, and that great pedal set.

The T248 gets a lot technically correct, and when it comes down to it, I'd take technical precision over aesthetics any day. This is the best wheel to buy on a tighter budget if you want to develop your racing ability and learn to corner consistently.

Read our full Thrustmaster T248 review.

Best budget direct drive racing wheel

The best budget direct drive racing wheel is the Moza R5 bundle, due to its surprisingly affordable price tag, tough construction, and detailed, punchy response. Considering it's quite a bit cheaper than the Fanatec CSL DD, that's a big win.

The Moza is also pretty upgradeable. It might not be a match for the many upgrade options available on the Fanatec, but you can grab a load-cell brake kit upgrade for its all-metal pedal set for just $29. For that sort of cash, it'd be silly not to get one, as it improves the brake pedal experience immensely.

The Moza R5 is a surprisingly high-quality piece of gear that really sits at odds with its budget price point. The wheel rim in particular is cushy, padded, and robust, in a way that makes other budget racing wheels feel downright outclassed.

The paddles have a really satisfying clunk to them, which is more important than I've made that sound. Satisfying gear shifts make you feel more connected to your virtual car, and the Moza has them down to a fine art. The whole setup is a lovely thing to interact with and has stood up to some serious abuse over the past year or so with absolute aplomb.

While weaker than some, the Moza's motor can propel the wheel around plenty when it needs to. It takes some forearm strength to really throw it around for a long race distance. Plus, the finer details come ripping through the wheel, direct from the virtual road into your hands. It feels alive with the right car, and delivers a level of granularity and texture in the feedback that is worthy of much, much more expensive gear.

The only major issue we ran into during testing was with the mounting plate on the Playseat Challenge X, and the lack of lengthy bolts included with the Moza package left us having to take a trip to the hardware store (bits 'n' bobs shop for fellow Brits) to get suitable replacements.

Even with that small, bolt-related caveat, it really is quite astonishing how good the Moza is for the cash. While it remains quite hard to argue with the Fanatec as a buy-in to a massive eco-system of parts, Moza does offer plenty of options itself, and considering how much you can save with the R5, that's all money towards something else.

Maybe a sim racing frame to keep your pedals in place, or a Formula One-style wheel? Direct drive-powered sim racing can quickly become an obsession, and the Moza kit is well-placed to get you going for a very reasonable sum.

Read our full Moza R5 Bundle and Performance Kit review.

Most upgradeable racing wheel

The Fanatec GT DD Pro is our top pick for the most upgradeable racing wheel. It sets a high standard for all racing wheels and makes a great starting point for any racing game enthusiast looking to leap into something more serious. The direct drive motor on offer here is decently powerful, with some seriously realistic feedback response.

Trust me, you want that. You feel every bump or loss of traction with the GT DD. I noticed my lap times started improving once I could hone in on where I was losing grip and speed during a lap. Yes, I had a few collisions along the way, but I felt like I was able to develop my race as a result.

The main practical benefit of the feedback is that really ensures you're aware when you take a little too much curb and helps you manage your traction throughout a corner. Quickly spinning back to the center means you can throw the wheel around and never feel like you're losing control over your steering in tight turns.

When you set it up just right, the GT DD Pro's finely tuned vibration and rotation transmit an incredible amount of information from the game into your hands. With a simulation-grade racing game, it's an absolute joy to throw the wheel around the track. And yes, it's technically built for Gran Turismo 7, but it's great on PC across a range of sim racing and sim-light games, such as Assetto Corsa and F1 23.

The GT DD has a pretty much immaculate construction, too, thanks to the simplicity of a straightforward clamp that slots into a solid metal wheelbase. The wheel itself is one of my favourites, too, packed to the brim with buttons that you soon become familiar with.

The CSL Pedals, unfortunately, don't come with a clutch or a load-cell brake. However, you can upgrade to a Fanatec load-cell kit, which replaces the brake and leaves the spare one to become a clutch pedal.

Everything about this kit screams versatility. I was no less comfortable in Forza Horizon than in F1 2021, despite the difference in force feedback settings. That's not something I can necessarily say about cheaper models. This isn't all down to the direct-drive technology at the heart of the GT DD Pro, either. It's also down to how simple this wheel is to set up for each game.

Fanatec has a huge range of options for pedal upgrades, wheel rims, and more. So, if you want a Formula One setup, you can buy the wheel rim to match, but if you want something a little more casual, that's fine too. Fanatec can't be beaten on this versatility, at least until you reach the real mega-bucks sim rigs.

With or without extras, this is truly one of the best ways to get into sim racing today and one of the best racing wheels I've tested.

Read our full Fanatec GT DD Pro review.

The best sim racing cockpit

The Playseat Trophy Logitech G Edition is one of the best ways to upgrade your current racing rig. Being essentially a seat and mount for your pedal and wheel, it can turn a simple setup into a full-on cockpit. It helps that the chair is so comfortable, I could sit on it day to day without a care, if others didn't judge me for doing so.

Starting out in the most important place, this chair is super well-built, with quality materials underlying that sturdy frame. Given that you will want to spend hours in a good racing chair, this is well-suited for the task. You simply have to pop your own wheel and pedals on the board, and you're ready to go.

As well as this, it's all very adjustable, being able to change the belt around the back of the chair for lower back support. Given that it is essentially padded fabric wrapped around a frame, it almost feels like a racing hammock, as opposed to a racing chair—and it's super comfortable as a result.

Being so well built, you can tweak many parts of the seat to get everything feeling just right. Once you've hooked up a game and got that screen pointing down at you, the experience of using this seat is downright luxurious.

It's a fairly substantial bit of gear, though, and one you need adequate room not only to use but also to store. Not only that, but the setup process is gruelling and tough. There are tons of screws and bits that slot together, all of which need adjusting and tweaking as you go.

That being said, if you have the room—and the patience—for something like this, it will add tremendously to that racing sim setup. It's about simulating a real race car, after all, and the full driving position experience really does add something tangible to the whole endeavour. Just be prepared to make some room, yes?

Read our full Playseat Trophy Logitech G Edition review.

Also tested

Q&A

Most of us would love a sim racing setup with a full frame, triple monitors, and the chassis from Sebastian Vettel's 2021 Aston Martin F1 challenger. But unless you're loaded beyond belief, it can be difficult to realise that dream. It is possible to piece together a sim racing rig, however, one component at a time. To do that, you need to maximise longevity and expandability by carefully picking the best components, those that'll last you many happy miles on track.

That's where a kit like the Fanatec GT DD Pro comes in, with the starting kit at $700 / €700 / £609 including shipping. It's a fundamentally impressive core set of components from which you can build upon, to one day realise your sim rig dreams.

Despite looking like an uninteresting hunk of metal, the wheelbase is the star of the show. Offering direct-drive at a fraction of the cost of the models that preceded it, the DD wheelbase is surprisingly powerful for its price. The internal motor delivers plenty of oomph to throw the attached wheel around when you're careening into the barriers, but more importantly the granularity of the force feedback is there to keep you from doing so too often.

The feedback this wheelbase provides not only ensures you're painfully aware when you take a little too much curb, but also helps inform you of your traction throughout a corner. A fast rotation back to centre also means you can throw the wheel around and never feel like you're losing control over your steering in tight chicanes.

There is a caveat to the DD wheelbase's power, however. The cheaper model I received for review uses a 90W power supply, providing just over half of the torque (5Nm) the unit is designed to deliver at full power. You'll need to spend another $180 to unlock its full potential with a 180W power supply, providing up to 8Nm torque—a pretty steep cost for a new AC adapter. Unfortunately I don't think you'll have much luck trying to plug in any old adapter, as the power connector on the DD Pro isn't a standard one.

Though this is a part of that expandability I'm talking about: you can save a little cash on the lower power version for now and upgrade down the line when you're ready. I'd still like to feel like I'm getting the most out of my racing wheel from the get-go, but if it keeps cost down enough that more users can therefore get their hands on this sort of quality direct-drive setup then I understand the approach here.

The pedals are also stripped back to basics with the budget GT DD Pro bundle, offering only accelerator and brake pedal, and lacking a dedicated clutch. Though this CSL Pedals set is Fanatec's most basic, it's still a rock-solid option nonetheless. You can also opt for a slightly pricier bundle to grab the complete three-pedal configuration by purchasing the bolt-on load-cell brake—you drop the new pedal in between your original two, using the modular foot plate to space them out, and then use the spare pedal as the clutch. 

All of which sounds awfully tempting, though between a load-cell brake and the larger power supply (they're not far off the same price), I'd probably lean towards the power supply. To get both you're looking at a much higher price tag right off the bat, so perhaps best to pace yourself with upgrades or stick with what's included.

It's not like you're stuck with lacklustre pedals if you do decide to stay put. The two included with the GT DD PRO are impressive and responsive, thanks to a smooth magnetic actuation. They're easy to customise too, with many options open for adjustments thanks to a few hex screws along the base. 

With the whole pedal set ditching the usual plastic construction found on cheaper models for a mostly metal alternative (only the pedal faceplates are plastic), they should last a good while. The other benefit to this construction is that the pedals are relatively heavy, which helps to keep them in place on your floor without a frame or extra support. 

That said, under heavy braking you'll still have some movement, especially in rally games. I'm yet to find a pedal set that has no movement at all, and while that only strengthens my resolve in picking up a frame for my racing setup someday, it also means you should carefully consider where you place these pedals: be that against an immovable object or wall to prevent too much movement under braking.

Though one part of the GT DD Pro bundle I don't think is in need of any replacement or upgrade is the wheel itself. It's a high quality unit with plenty of buttons to keep even the most finicky racers happy. The included wheel fulfils all I needed it to in Assetto Corsa, and there are options to customise it further if needed, either through the Fanatec app or on the wheel itself through the onboard OLED display.

In F1 2021, a game that doesn't offer native support for this particular model, I did have to run the wheel in compatibility mode. What that means is it replicates the more popular and longstanding CSL wheel, and in doing so loses the ability to tweak some of the onboard buttons, such as the four 5-way directional sticks. You can still nail down a suitable setup in F1 2021 using the compatibility mode profile, just bear in mind that the Fanatec apps won't let you tweak the wheel's parameters digitally and you'll have to set it up via the wheel instead.

That's easy enough to do: you have multiple profile options on the wheel itself. These can be set-up one for each game and switched between with only a few button presses. You mostly only have to worry about tweaking these settings once before you're ready to go, though I found some cars in Assetto Corsa require more or less max rotation than others, and so you might need to fiddle a little more to nail a decent turning circle.

But when you set it up just right, the GT DD Pro sings. The finely-tuned vibration and rotation through the wheel transmits so much information from the game's engine into your hands—with the right racing game, one that has simulation-grade feedback, it's an absolute joy to throw the GT DD around the track. While technically built for Gran Turismo 7, it's no worse off on the PC across a range of sim racing and sim-light games, such as Assetto Corsa and F1 2021.  

What I really enjoy about this kit is its versatility. I jumped into Forza Horizon 5 and felt no less comfortable throwing this wheel around as I did in F1 2021 with tighter force feedback settings. That's not something I've necessarily felt with cheaper models, and while that's partially down to the direct-drive technology at the heart of the GT DD Pro, it's also in how simple this wheel is to set-up for each game, even those it doesn't necessarily play nicely with.

While much cheaper units, when using the Thrustmaster T248 and Logitech G923 I've to hand for comparison I immediately noticed the lack of kick. A kick I'd already grown all too familiar with too quickly with the GT DD Pro. It feels far more agile and quick to stir, making for a much more responsive driving experience. And if the promise of a significant amounts more power doesn't tempt you, the overall form and finish of the GT DD Pro should—this looks and feels much more like a car than the others.

Don't get me wrong, I have a soft spot for both of those cheaper wheels, but the GT DD Pro is by all measures a major step up in sim racing technology. The next level of racing sim experience. 

Next to previous Fanatec models, such as the Fanatec CSL Elite, it is clear that Fanatec's DD base is as versatile as it is powerful. The cheapest bundle going—the wheel, twin-pedal set, and 5 Nm wheelbase—is a superb package even without any extras. It's no wonder the DD wheelbase has almost entirely replaced the older models.

The GT DD Pro's biggest catch is that it's an easy money-sink, however. The GT DD Pro 5 Nm package gets you mostly what you need, but no doubt you'll be itching for more power, more pedals, and more monitors within months.

But whether you plan to build out your sim racing setup or stick to the basic package, the GT DD Pro is an excellent way to enter the sim racing game. The DD wheelbase has an almighty power behind it, and I dare say there's never been a better time to build a racing sim with this excellent bit of kit delivering direct-drive in a compact package.

You don't need to spend thousands on the latest racing wheel and wheelbase to get a competitive racing sim setup, you just need to turn to the best companies in the biz. Companies such as Thrustmaster, who has put together a stellar package in the T248 for a little under $400. Sure, other racing wheels are more visually appealing, but I found myself coming back to the T248 more often than others for its excellent force feedback.

The Thrustmaster T248 includes both the T248 wheelbase and wheel and a set of T3PM magnetic pedals. It's the sort of all-in-one package looking to square up to the Logitech G923 or compete with Thrustmaster's own, slightly more expensive T300RS. In terms of its underlying force feedback technology, it's sort of an in-between of those two competing packages, too.

The best racing wheels around will produce accurate force feedback through what's known as direct-drive. A motor translates in-game activity and calls from the game engine into bumps, vibrations, and rotational movement. However, this can be pricey to implement as it requires a large motor powering it. 

Cheaper racing wheels get around that by boosting the power of a smaller, cheaper motor through the use of other systems, such as gears or belts. Though with these additional parts feeding power through the wheel you also lose the finer details from the motor and therefore the end result is less response and accuracy. When you need to trim costs, however, these are the way to go, and a belt-drive system is usually the preferred option for its ability to amplify power from the motor with minimal clunkiness.

What Thrustmaster is delivering with the T248 is the Thrustmaster Hybrid Drive. It's not exactly gear- or belt-driven, but there is a belt in there to maximise the internal motor's potential in-game. The Hybrid Drive feels like a smart move on Thrustmaster's behalf once you get this wheel setup, too, as compared to a purely gear-driven motor, there's a lot of power and response delivered through the wheel while racing.

It is a heavy-feeling wheel, though. You really have to throw it around with some force to make a sharp corner at speed. That's both a blessing and a curse: If you don't have it setup right for a game like F1 2021 or some cars in Assetto Corsa: Competizione—where the wheel rotation is far from the maximum 1080° offered—it can be quite a struggle to turn the T248 as needed. Though that's mostly easily rectified by spending a little more time in the settings menu. 

When it comes to rallying in WRC 10 or some cheeky drifting in Forza Horizon 5, there's not such an easy fix. You have to instead turn down the force feedback on the wheel, which loosens it up a little bit, but isn't the ideal option.

But like I said, it's also a blessing in some games. Once you're set up in F1 2021 with 360° rotation befitting an F1 car (rotation can be adjusted through the onboard wheel settings), that high level of resistance and feedback from the tyres and the track really helped me nail down my accuracy in tricky corners. I'd say more so than the purely gear-driven Logitech G923, which is less controlled and precise than the T248 while arguably more fun to use and better suited to erratic drifting.

Some F1 tracks were trickier than others to get just right with the T248. The Netherlands' own Zandvoort recently returned to the F1 calendar and to the F1 games, and that is a tight and tricky track to nail down with plenty of sharp corners. I found I had to run a few laps just to balance the level of force feedback and response on the T248 to feel comfortable around the track's tightest corners and through the high-speed banked turns leading to the straights. More tweaking that I've ever done on a per-track basis for other wheels I've used.

Though my reward for that extra work was some seriously snappy lap times. With a wheel such as this delivering a high level of resistance throughout its rotation, and a smooth, responsive force feedback, it is easy to develop your driving technique over the course of the lap and slowly develop how you take a corner.

It's for that reason that I find myself reaching for the T248 more than the G923 when I dip into a driving game. I've had more fun freestyling with the G923, but now that I want to push my driving a little further, and find myself focusing on lap times, it's the Thrustmaster wheel that helps me do that better of the two. In more heavy sim games like Assetto Corsa, that sort of feedback from your car's tyres and their connection to the track at any given time is crucial to nailing faster lap times.

There are also three modes for force feedback accessible via the wheel's easy-to-use onboard interface: FFB 1 is your standard response as the game decides, FFB 2 is a little more oomph than that, and FFB 3 adds even more sauce to that. I recommend FFB 3 where you can—the extra feedback provided doesn't take away from the accuracy of the response in any way, so why not?

Next to a direct-drive unit like the Fanatec GT DD Pro, you're looking at a much weaker response in the T248, however. It can come across a little muted when you're really throwing it around rocky terrain. Yet at this price there's not a whole lot more out there that will appeal to both more casual gamers and more experienced racers than the T248. Perhaps the fan-favourite T300RS—with its hot-swappable wheel and belt-driven force feedback—but then you're missing out on the mod cons of the T248.

Mod cons such as an impressive pedal set. The T248 comes with Thrustmaster's T3PM pedal set, which are magnetically actuated and topped with a metal plate for long-term use without degradation. They also deliver a great feeling brake that's set-up fairly well out of the box. You can tweak the brake with an included spring, and there's a small washer in there you can remove for a total of four adjustments to the overall brake feel.

Crack the firmest spring and washer onto the pedal without a frame or support for your pedals and you may run into an issue, however. With enough braking force the pedals either tilt upwards or move around, and that can be pretty frustrating when you're trying to hit a new track record. I tested both the pedals on a carpet and smooth floor and both suffered the same sort of issue with unwantedly shifting around, and you'll want to back the pedals up against a wall (or use a block of wood to prevent sliding like I did) to keep the worst of this from happening.

The takeaway for me here is that a racing sim frame of some description is a bit of a necessity if you want to step up your sim racing experience. I'm yet to find any pedal sets with decent brake pedals that are able to stand up to the fast-paced, aggressive braking demanded in most games without moving around a fair bit. That's true of the pedals included with the Fanatec GT DD Pro and Logitech G923, too, though the carpet grip system on the latter definitely helped keep some of that movement to a minimum.

But an overall impressive pedal set for the money, and there's good form elsewhere to report. 

The paddle shifters on the T248 are the most responsive I've used, ever. They're magnetic and I'm yet to miss a gear while using them. That's something I wish I could say about the Logitech G923's paddle shifters, which feel great but I often miss shifts while using. The T248's shifters are just really responsive and you can hit them with certainty, but before I sing too much praise you have to know one thing about them.

The T248's paddles are loud. Like, really loud.

These are not only the best I've used but by far the absolute loudest. It's strangely not the actuation of these that makes the most noise either, it's when they're released that they rapidly fling back to position with a ear-cracking snap as plastic hits plastic.

The T248 is built out of some pretty cheap plastic, too. While I don't fear for its longevity, it doesn't live up to the finish of the G923 in how it looks or feels under hand. That's a bit of a shame, as when it comes to operation, the onboard interface, and the button layout of the T248 it is the superior option of the two.

There's a lot to love and a lot that's just okay with the Thrustmaster T248. Luckily, though, I think the just okay stuff makes up the more minor features that matter less when you're focused squarely on racing your best. There's also very little bad about it. 

The T248's impressive force feedback matters most while you're pushing for pole, and that the T248 absolutely nails versus the competition here. While I don't think it's necessarily a home-run from Thrustmaster in replacing the T300RS—which is still a great, if a little pricier option to form the foundation of your racing sim setup (especially if you want pedals to match the T248)—there's a competitive wheel in the T248 that no one else can match right now at the price.

As with most PC hardware, you could throw a little more at your racing wheel budget and get a reasonable lift in quality for it, but the Thrustmaster T248 is a great fit for both new racers and more enthusiast racers that don't want to overspend.

You can spend as much money as you like on a racing sim setup for your gaming PC. I'm not just talking about extravagant prices for the latest graphics cards or CPUs. It's the monitors, the shifters, the pedals. Perhaps you want a full racing seat rig, or want to go fully-modular with the wheel base and steering wheel. Top-notch rigs trade affordability for realism, immersion, and feedback on the track. 

But while there's a big difference between McLaren's top-secret F1 simulator and the $400 Logitech G923, you'd be surprised how much realism there is on offer from something cheap and cheerful in the sim racing world.

The Logitech G923 is a wheel I've been keen to try out for some time due to its popularity. It follows in the footsteps of the Logitech G29/G920, a popular racing wheel for PC/Xbox/PS4, and very little has changed between them. In fact, they're near-enough identical. 

It's no surprise, then, if you're an owner of Logitech's previous racing wheel, the G29 or G920, you'll not find a suitable upgrade path in the G923. I'd recommend checking out the Fanatec CSL Elite or its upcoming CSL DD wheelbase. You could even go whole hog and step up to a more pricey direct drive option.

Similarly, if you're in the market for a cheaper racing wheel, the G29/G920 make for a great, PC-friendly options that have come down in price significantly since the launch of the G923.

Importantly in this case, though, the Logitech G923 can be considered affordable. For that, it sticks to its roots with a twin motor force feedback construction. It's not quite a direct drive or even belt-driven wheel base, but it's got kick where you want it around the corners or over bumpy terrain. You'll know when a tyre is clipping the outer edge of the curb, or when your left rear clips the grass—it's that level of fine-grain feedback you'll need to nail lap times at the ragged edge of sim-racing.

The G923 certainly hits that sweet spot of enough... what's the best word... womp? It throws the wheel around some, is what I mean. There's also enough resistance there to mimic the racing experience and keep you close to the track. in a way that you simply can't experience without decent force feedback. It's not going to throw you around corners quite like some more expensive kits, but at the same time the G923 isn't scared of dragging your wheel off course as you're careening out of a corner.

The benefit of this wheel over some others is that, despite being relatively new, it benefits from the many G-series wheels before it. Most games recognise the wheel natively and will set the controls accordingly, but for those that don't there are tons of helpful guides on how to do so, either for the G923 or the G29 and G920. F1 2019 was the only game I had to hop into the options menu to setup, and I simply followed these guidelines from Reddit for the G29.

One of the few changes with the G923 over its predecessor is the introduction of TrueForce, a software feature that translates in-game physics more accurately from game to wheel.

How to explain TrueForce in action... it's sort of like a low humming as you glide over the track, which translates the finer features of the track into your wheel. I'd say it does feel like driving a car, at least more so than with it disabled, although it doesn't feel like it's usable information when racing. I enjoy the feel of it, it's just limited in scope, and that's both in terms of on-track feedback and support. TrueForce is currently supported in just seven games:

Project Cars 3, Assetto Corsa Competizione, Automobilista 2, GRID (2019), iRacing, Monster Truck Championship, and Snowrunner.

As a way of differentiating the G923 from its predecessors, perhaps that's not all that convincing. As I mentioned, if it's an upgrade from the G29 or G920 you're looking for, this isn't it. 

For new super licensees and growing gearheads there's an well-rounded package here, though. The G923 is well-built: the rear may be plastic but the metal and leather finish on the wheel itself brings about longevity where it counts. Unfortunately, the inclusion of leather does mean this product isn't vegan. 

The shifter paddles (flappy paddles) feel responsive and mechanically satisfying, too. My only concern with the construction is with the way the wheel attaches to a desk or frame. It's not the most stable design, depending on your desk, and keeping it firmly planted can mean cranking the latches down pretty tight.

The maximum depth of the mounting system is 3.5 cm, with the plastic extension clips removed, so if your desk is thicker than that you'll either have to screw the wheel in using the two threaded holes on the underside of the unit, or attach a thinner board and clamp that to your desk through other means.

Perhaps the best bit about the G923 package though is that it's more than a racing wheel and wheelbase. It's a set of three pedals, too, and really solid ones at that. I was pretty taken aback at the quality of these pedals the first time I used them, they have all the makings of higher-end pedals where it counts.

The accelerator delivers a decent linear press with a snappy return to keep it glued to your foot, while the clutch brings similarly swift response with increasing tension as you depress the pedal—enough to create a faux bite point. The brake pedal, however, is the highlight of the three. Slightly tweaked from the G920 and G29 design, a progressive spring design requires serious stomp power to use. So much so that the units carpet grip system is something of a necessity for serious racing, and you'll want to consider a chair with lockable castors to keep you firmly in place and gunning for position in-game.

The pedals only add to what I feel is an already impressive package in the G923. An all-rounder like no other, you're getting a wheel that not only feels great, it plays great too. I've failed up until this point to mention this wheel is simply great for racing. It's not some tiny, gimmicky wheel that can nary stand up to a controller. It's built for racing games. It makes the racing game experience addictive as heck, as I've waxed lyrical about already, but it will also allow you to be more accurate, faster with any luck, when racing.

If you're a motorsport fan, a lapsed virtual racer, or a gamer looking to broaden your horizons with sim racing, the Logitech G923 is much more of a competitive racing wheel than you'd expect, and with a competitive price tag to match. Similarly, though, it's still worth checking out the G29 and G920 while they're still available, simply because they're much of the same for less cash.

I'm not usually one to go for a drive just for the sake of going for a drive. Perhaps that's down to my choice of real-life car, a compact Peugeot 107 with just enough go to get up a hill without holding up traffic. I love that car, though, mostly because it costs next to nothing to run. Yet it's no Sunday drive stallion.

Instead I find my interest in fast cars that I can't afford intersects wonderfully with my other overwhelming passion, the thing I've dedicate a great deal of my time to for both work and pleasure: videogames. And there's truly no better way to experience the joy of a racing game than with a decent force feedback wheel.

With Forza Horizon 4 headed to Steam today, it felt like a fitting time to jot down my experience racing the rolling hills of Albion as I test out the Logitech G923 Trueforce sim racing wheel for review. 

Because if you haven't heard by now, a racing wheel is a complete gamechanger.

Forza Horizon 4 is a superb game through and through, even sans wheel. Featuring a compact playground of winding roads, high-speed motorways, and off-road tracks that traipse past famous landmark after famous landmark. What's not to love? It makes for an excellent reminder of why it'd be enjoyable to once again be able to go for a long drive and set up camp somewhere for the night. 

But I'm getting waylaid. Even beyond Horizon 4's excellence, the inclusion of a racing wheel has been the immersion maker for me. It's kept me glued once again to this game over a year since its initial release on the Microsoft Store.

The game and wheel integrate seamlessly together. You need only plug the G923 into your machine, let it spin its wheel aggressively a handful of times as it likes to do, and away you go. For the most part the default controls work wonders, but there's more granularity in the settings menu if you want to tweak a little further. In my case, there's also the option for manual gearbox with clutch, which there's no way in hell I'm not suffering through in the name of realism and immersion. 

It's a perfect fit for the tri-pedal set included with the Logitech wheel, too.

Flappy panels, manual gears, and a clutch that you actually need to depress to get the cars rolling, and you've got a combination that has been so engaging that I've spent hours just driving around picking up whichever event or speed trap on the map I happen to roll upon. 

Feeling the traction on turns and the weight of the wheel at high-speed has made me a better racer. Period. That moment you lose grip around a tight turn, admittedly going way too fast, becomes a learning experience in how to thread the needle for perfect cornering.

A decent wheel will offer that minute feedback and near-instantaneous response for a more reflexive driving style to kick in. If your rear is slipping after cutting a corner a little too close, you can correct before it's too late where I found it much more difficult with a regular gaming pad.

It's not just Forza. I've set up that wheel for optimal snappy steering in F1 2019 (using these settings for the G29 over on Reddit), and picked up Dirt 5 on Games Pass and had equally excellent times in both.

Dirt 5 is especially well-suited to showing you what that force feedback can do. My phone and a glass of water have been thrown off my desk after some aggressive off-road driving in that game.

And just as much there are a heap of other superb racing wheels too, from the cheaper Thrustmaster T300 RS set to the more professional Fanatec mix-and-match kit. This is more so a reminder that, yes, racing wheels in general are immensely entertaining and remain a sound investment in 2021.

I'm decades late to the party with this one, sure, but if you are considering investing in a racing wheel or just getting into racing games, I can tell you from experience that I've loved every second with this one so far.

The Fanatec CSL Elite is a high-priced racing wheel by most people’s standards, and yet it is the entry-level model in the Fanatec line-up. You'd be hard pressed to see why, however, considering that it's absolutely the best racing wheel you can get for $600.

The Fanatec CSL Elite starts out at $570, but as a highly modular system you could spend plenty more on the steering wheel itself, upgraded pedals, or a separate gearbox and handbrake. As such, the cost can easily spiral above $1,000 before you even make the jump to the higher-end Clubsport wheel base.

I've kept things sensible for this review. We’re primarily looking at the standard Fanatec CSL Elite wheel and base, although I've swapped out the standard $100 CSL Elite pedals for the highly recommended load cell brake pedals at $230.

The Fanatec CSL Elite is the best racing wheel available at its price, particularly for PC players. It beats the Thrustmaster T-GT in several core respects and is a clear upgrade over lower-cost alternatives such as the Logitech G29 and Thrustmaster T300 RS GT. Logitech has just announced the new Trueforce Racing Wheel, so we'll have to get that in to see how it shapes up in comparison.

All of this won’t mean a great deal if the Fanatec CSL Elite will be your very first racing wheel, however, so let's cover the basics. A force feedback racing wheel uses motors to emulate the forces you’d experience in a real car. The wheel struggles against your turns on a corner, and you’ll feel it go slack as you lose traction on the tarmac.

At its maximum force feedback strength the Fanatec CSL Elite provides a solid workout for your arms and shoulders, particularly if your usual upper body workout routine doesn’t go beyond lifting a fork from a bowl of noodles. It makes actual racing sims, such as Dirt Rally 2.0, Project Cars 2, and Assetto Corsa, much more involving, although is wasted on arcade-style racers where less effort is put into the minutiae of a car’s physics. 

Smoothness is the most obvious upgrade with the CSL Elite over a cheaper racing wheel. For example, you can feel the helical gearing system of the Logitech G29 with every turn, almost like the click of a rotary watch bezel.

The Fanatec and Thrustmaster systems, however, use belt-driven motors, which takes away much of this “notchy” feel. The CSL Elite is significantly smoother than any Thrustmaster wheel, including the top-end TS models. I've tried them side-by-side, and the difference is clear and immediate. A smoother turn leads to cleaner-feeling force feedback. All the jolts and bumps felt are programmed by the developer, free from the tactile feedback bed of a notched wheel action.

The pedals are another highlight. Fanatec’s pedal board has an all-metal inner construction, solid resistance, and there’s the option of a load cell brake. This can take up to 90kg of force to depress, a world away from an entry-level pedal set that is usually just a bit stiffer than the accelerator and clutch. 

The bad news: you’re not going to appreciate the hardcore brake hardware if you use a simple wheel stand. You’ll need a proper frame that secures the Fanatec CSL Elite to even be able to apply anything like that sort of pressure without the pedal board gradually, or rapidly, retreating from your feet. 

The good news: just about every other parameter under the sun can be customised. That includes pedal sensitivity if you find the default to be a little over- or under-baked.

This is a wheel for enthusiasts, which becomes clearer when you dig a little deeper and realise the pedal board actually lets you move, and even switch around, each individual pedal. Though that highlights one of the potentially off-putting parts of the Fanatec CSL Elite, for some buyers at least. It’s less “plug and play” than a Thrustmaster T-GT or lower-end wheel, and you will likely need the PDF manual. 

There’s an entire menu system within the wheel, displayed through a chunky LED at the top. This lets you control 11 stats that alter how the wheel behaves. You can program-in multiple presets, one for each racing game perhaps, and flick between them right on the wheel. 

You don’t need to fiddle with all, or any, but I regularly tweak the brake sensitivity (the arm workout alone is enough), occasionally the force feedback strength and the Force Effect Intensity (FEI). This is a curious one. FEI doesn’t change the strength of the wheel’s pull, rather how aggressive the feedback effect is. Higher settings make it more ferocious, a faster attack, and some games work maxed-out better than others. 

Playing with the force feedback and FEI also showed me one way the step-up Fanatec Clubsport 2.5 wheelbase improves upon the CSL Elite. It seems to handle severe stabs of force feedback and very fast changes better. This is no surprise. The Clubsport 2.5 has a completely difference force feedback system that uses two “ribbed” belts rather than the Elite’s single non-ribbed one. Fanatec says it gets you closer to the feel of a direct drive wheel, although thanks to the smooth turn of the CSL Elite I didn’t find it quite as big an upgrade as moving from a Logitech G29 wheel to the Elite. 

The Clubsport 2.5 also offer much greater torque, with eight newton meters to the CSL Elite’s six. It can struggle against you even harder, but I find the CSL Elite punishing enough when maxed-out. 

Back when the CSL Elite first launched in 2017 the actual steering wheel would have been another negative to note. The first iteration of the standard Fanatec P1 wheel had a rubber grip. It was larger, less toy-like than the Thrustmaster T-GT’s, but felt and looked a little cheap for a wheel of its grade. 

Fanatec has fixed this by replacing some of the rubber with Alcantara, a synthetic suede also used in the wheels of some real-life sports cars. This feels much better. 

Its ClubSport Steering Wheel BMW GT2 steering wheel is better still; heavier and fancier-looking. I tried this rim with the Clubsport 2.5 wheel base for comparison. But while I might have recommended this upgrade in 2017, it’s just not that necessary for most now the baseline P1 design is so much nicer. 

What else is there to consider? The Fanatec CSL Elite does emit some noticeable fan noise after a few minutes use, particularly if you use a high force feedback setting. Fanatec switched to a dual fan system in the ClubSport 2.5 to try to remedy this. It’s louder than the Thrustmaster T-GT, but this does not come closer to outweighing the benefits of a larger wheel and smoother ride. 

The CSL Elite wheel base also has a plastic case, one that looks less suave than the Thrustmaster T-GT’s and feels cheaper than the metal of the ClubSport 2.5. But, when you really get down to it, does a bit of prosaic plastic really matter here? This case also has rev counter LEDs, which I find adds a nice extra layer of immersion. 

Those who play in batcave-like rooms may not love the glare, however, and the CSL Elite setup app doesn’t let you switch them off. 

And if you own a console, be careful of the wheelbase you buy, as there’s a specific version for PS4. It’s slightly more expensive, but Fanatec’s PS4 bundle wipes away the extra cost anyway. 

The Fanatec CSL Elite is the sweet spot racing wheel for many sim enthusiasts. It’s nowhere near as expensive as a direct drive setup but does offer unmistakable benefits over the obvious Logitech and Thrustmaster alternatives. It offers a smooth action, the pedals are great, and a relatively wide diameter wheel that makes it feel less like a toy. 

The Fanatec CSL Elite isn't quite as easy to use than the Thrustmaster T-GT, and is a little noisier too. Both are great, but the Elite pips it with cleaner-feeling force feedback. I recommend the upgrade to the load cell brake for serious setups, and if buying second hand try to avoid the first-gen rubbery P1 steering wheel. The more recent Alcantara revision is a worthy update. 

Keyboards and mice are great, but for racing games like Forza Motorsport and GRID Autosport, an actual steering wheel goes a long way to making the experience more fun. The Logitech G29 is one of the best wheels available for PC, and now it has dropped to $194.99 on Newegg. That's the lowest price we've seen yet—$5 lower than its price on Black Friday 2018.

Don't be fooled by the PlayStation logo in the center—the Logitech G29 works with PCs, as well as PS3 and PS4 consoles. You can find an unofficial compatibility list here, but it works with most major PC titles. American Truck Simulator, Dirt Rally, F1 2018, Farming Simulator 19, Forza Horizon 4, and GRID are just some of the supported games.

The wheel itself has dual-motor force feedback, a maximum rotation of 900 degrees, and a leather covering. The set also comes with adjustable floor pedals, and you can buy a shifter separately.

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