Ok, here are instructions. All the times I've linked "see here" are labelled diagrams to help you see which part is which and what's important on them. I've used diagrams of the exact parts I've linked above. The large amount of text looks intimidating in hindsight, but really, it's nothing too complex.
All this is in both of the video guides in my original post if you want to follow along.
1a) Take the case out of it's box and open the left side panel (facing the front of the case).
1b) [Optionally] Attach the antistatic wristband to your wrist and put the crocodile clip onto the case.
2) Take the motherboard (see here
) out of it's box and place it on a safe surface (such as the box it was contained in). Do not
use the grey/black anti-static bag the board came in since it's conductive.
3) Lift the retention lever on the CPU socket and also the metal casing around the sides of it. If the pins are not showing there is likely a cover on the socket that you need to remove. It'll just look like a fake CPU. Don't touch the CPU socket with your hands (or anything apart from a CPU).
4) Place the CPU (see here
) into the CPU socket making sure to match up the pins on the socket to the bottom of the CPU. There may be a cover on the bottom of the CPU so make sure the metal contacts on the bottom are revealed before placing. Also, be sure not to touch the underside of the CPU (hold it from the sides). This entire step will require no force at all
and the chip should simply drop into place.
5) Close the metal casing and the retention lever to lock the CPU in place. This will
require some force but don't panic since this is normal.
6) Now grab the CPU cooler (see here
) that arrived with the CPU and place it directly ontop of the CPU socket. It comes with pre-applied thermal paste so make sure not to touch the bottom of it and smudge it. You should notice the fasteners on the CPU cooler line up with the holes around the CPU socket on the motherboard.
7) Plug the CPU fan cable into a 3 pin plug on the motherboard. This should
be near the CPU socket and will literally look like 3/4 pins in a row protruding alone somewhere around the motherboard (don't worry if you see 4 pins, it'll still work with the 3 pin fan connector. Just leave the pin on the right exposed).
8) Now move to the RAM slots and push the white tabs on the side of them (leaving them open to recieve the RAM). Take both the RAM DIMMS (see here
) out of their box and align them with the two slots (one at a time). It's impossible to plug them in the wrong way around because if you notice: there's a gap on both the bottom of the RAM and the slot that'll help you determine the correct rotation. The tabs on the side should clip themselves in once you push the RAM all the way into the sockets.
9) You now need to replace the fake IO Shield (see here
) inside the case (see here
). First: remove the fake one at the top left inside. You'll have to push outwards rather than into the case to get it removed. Now go into your motherboard box and find the one included in there. Place that into the IO Shield hole (from the outside remember).
10) Get your screwdriver out. Place the motherboard into the top-left corner of the case. Then use the screws included with your case to screw the motherboard onto the points inside the case. Try and get as many as you can but don't worry if you miss a few points: just as long as you get enough in that it's stable and doesn't make contact with the raw case (excluding the screw holes) it's fine.
11) There's a fan cable attached to the fan above the IO Shield. Grab it and plug that one in the same way you plugged the CPU Fan in.
12) Probably the hardest part of the build now: plugging in the case headers. Find the wires attached to the front of your case and prepare to plug them into the bottom of the motherboard. You'll need to refer to your motherboard manual here since the procedure can vary. The most important thing is just making sure you get the 'power on' and 'reset' cables plugged in correctly. The Front USB ports and Front Audio are secondary.
13) Remove the other side of the case.
14) Get both the Optical Drive (see here
) and the Hard Drive (see here
) out of their boxes & bubble wrap. Now get the two SATA cables (see here
) out of the motherboard box. Place both cables into the Optical Drive and Hard Drive. You'll notice there are little nooks at the head of each cable that indicate which way it needs to be plugged in on both drives.
15) Grab the Optical Drive and go back to the diagram of inside the case (here
). Place it horizontally into the 5.25" drive bay (from the outside of the case). You'll notice the screw holes line up with the ones on the side of the optical drive (there are screw holes on both sides). Get your screwdriver and screw it in securely.
16) Now it's time for a similar procedure with the Hard Drive. Place it horizontally (this time from the inside of the case) into one of the 3.5"/2.5" hard drive bays. You'll notice this time that on the top two slots there are 4 screw holes on each side instead of 2. This just indicates the bays that support 2.5" drives (like SSDs). Since your using a 3.5" Hard Drive just ignore this and only screw in the outermost holes if you do
use the uppermost bays.
17) Route the cables into the cable tidying holes so that they're around the back and then route them back through the hole closest to the SATA plugs at the bottom-right of the motherboard (here's that diagram again
18) Time to get the Power Supply (see here
) out of it's box. Place it into the gasket at the bottom left of the case from the inside. You, of course, want the wires facing into the case and the plug & power on button facing out of it. Don't be tempted to plug it in yet.
19) There's now a mess of cables at the bottom of the case. Find the 20+4-pin power connector (see here
). Like with the SATA cables: first route it through the cable tidying holes and then into the closest hole to the 20/24-pin plug on the center-right of your motherboard. It should clip into place with a bit of force (probably won't be audible).
20) Now find 2 SATA Power Cables (see here
). Route them around the back, then plug them into both the hard drive and optical drive.
21) Now find the 4-pin CPU Power Cable (see here
). Route it around the back but this time the socket is at the top-left of the motherboard, so route it accordingly.
22) We're nearly done! Remove the top two video card brackets next to the PCI-E slot (under the IO).
23) Now get the video card out of it's box. Place it horizontally into the PCI-E slot (here's the motherboard diagram
). Like with the RAM: the tab on the side should automatically clip into a nook on the card when it's fitted correctly. If you need to re-fit it make sure to unclip this tab before you remove and re-place it.
24) Screw the video card bracket into the case with two screws that came with the case.
25) The video card may or may not need an extra PCI-E power connector (see here
). Look at the top-right of the card and see if there's a plug for one. If not: skip this step.
26) Everything internally should be plugged in. Attach either a DVI or HDMI cable to the video card from the outside at the back and plug the other end into a monitor.
27) Plug in the power supply with the cable that came with it, turn it on and press the 'power on' button on the front of your case. If all goes well it should power up. Ready to install Windows.
28) Turn it off. Hide away the cables inside the case to tidy things up then put the sides of the case back on.